Sorry I posted this in the wrong section. I'll try again.....
I am currently setting up my 1998 HiAce. I have 2x 80w solar panels and a 130ampH battery as well as the normal start battery. They are connected via a switch that I turn on when I drive and try to remember to turn off when I stop. To get it started I bought the cheapest regulator not realizing a more expensive one could make a big difference. Needless to say I run out of power.
Ok, so I've gone a bit oversize on the fridge (106 EvaKool) but I'd like to keep it and upgrade the power system. I understand I might have to add another solar panel but what regulator would you recommend? I'd like something with a digital display so I can see the current state and input/usage but want to keep it as simple as possible. Many say they are "programable" but just what might I have to program? I just want it to work.
Also, can anyone recommend an auto switch so that I don't have to remember to turn the battery switch.
TIA
Leanne
Scotty01 said
08:16 PM May 30, 2013
Hi HiAceHome.
RedArk make a very reliable second battery solenoid, not that cheap but very reliable. RedArk also no make Solar equipment so a dealer may be able to recommend a suitable regulator as well. having 2 different types of batterys may cause some problem with charging but some expert on here will definatly cover that.
HiAceHome said
10:24 PM May 30, 2013
I prefer to do my shopping on eBay because of price, convenience and I find it a much more relaxing way to shop. I'm looking at this regulator
What are your thoughts? Has anyone used these products?
Cheers
Leanne
Ontos45 said
03:51 AM May 31, 2013
HiAceHome wrote:
Sorry I posted this in the wrong section. I'll try again.....
I am currently setting up my 1998 HiAce. I have 2x 80w solar panels and a 130ampH battery as well as the normal start battery. They are connected via a switch that I turn on when I drive and try to remember to turn off when I stop. To get it started I bought the cheapest regulator not realizing a more expensive one could make a big difference. Needless to say I run out of power.
Ok, so I've gone a bit oversize on the fridge (106 EvaKool) but I'd like to keep it and upgrade the power system. I understand I might have to add another solar panel but what regulator would you recommend? I'd like something with a digital display so I can see the current state and input/usage but want to keep it as simple as possible. Many say they are "programable" but just what might I have to program? I just want it to work.
Also, can anyone recommend an auto switch so that I don't have to remember to turn the battery switch.
TIA
Leanne
Hi there HiAceHome.
I'll try and keep this simple.
First you need to know how much daily power you need.
We first write down 1.5Amps for the fridge power times operating time of 24hrs equals 36Amps per day. An electric fridge cycles on/of depending on temperature (60% off/40% on) that's why a low current figure. (the rear of your fridge may operating current shown)
So we see we need 36Amps per day. (I add 10% to this figure for cable loses ) Lets call it 40Amps.
To work out the capacity of the battery needed multiply the daily power usage by the number of days you want to go without power and divide by 0.8....so
40Ah * 2 days / 0.8 = 100Ah of bat power power. (the battery capacity is 20% greater than needed as even deep cycle batteries wont last long if fully discharged)
Solar Panels should be sized larger than needed as the sun don't shine all day)
Convert the 40Ah to Watts hour by multiplying by 12V which gives 480Wh. Lets say we have 8 hours of sun so MINIMUM size of panels is 480Wh/8h = 60W Add another 50% for fixed panels or shade giving us 90W.
Solar panels CANNOT be connected directly to batteries as the output is way too high. Use a solar regulator that uses Maximum Point Power Tracking (MPPT) technology and it has in-built multistage battery charging. It should be also placed close to the battery to reduce drop in cables.
Hope this does not confuse too much, but I find it helps if you know a bit about what you want when talking to a sales person. I find Jaycar Electronics very helpful as well as reasonable prices.
Peter
PS. I have done this for a few vans I've owned and seems to work....lol
HiAceHome said
04:08 PM May 31, 2013
This is the second setup up I'm doing. I did similar calculations for my last van & it worked well even with the cheapie regulator. This time, with the larger fridge I need more & will need to get the most out of my panels so I want to make the right choice with the regulator. Money is not really a problem but do I have to spent $400+ for a regulator?
Personally I would check out the CTEK site, some of their battery chargers also work as solar regulators. Gives you a decent battery charger and regulator in one unit. They are great for conditioning batteries and keeping them topped up and in good condition as well as keeping the solar charge under control.
Not sure of the model numbers but I am sure you will find them on the site.
Thanks Ontos. That's the kind of information I need
Cheers Leanne
jimricho said
12:07 AM Jun 1, 2013
This is a copy of my post on the general forum so please excuse me if I'm repeating information contained in some of the other posts....
quote...
I would ALWAYS recommend installing a proper dual battery system relay such as a Redarc "Smart Start" instead of a normal relay (aka solenoid) or a switch such as you have done to isolate the auxiliary battery from the main battery. Click on http://tinyurl.com/maphul3 for more information.
There are many other brands available. Installing one of these will ensure that your main battery will always get priority changing and not leave you with a flat starting battery. You will not have to remember to switch anything when you pull up.
Re the regulator (aka controller) as suggested, the closer to the battery this is installed the better. A PWM or MPPT regulator (these are regulator types, not brands) would be the better option but a "common or garden" variety would do the job. Regardless of the type I would suggest in this installation you keep it simple rather than go for an "all bells and whistles" regulator that would be more appropriate for a more complex system.
end quote.
Loki said
07:16 PM Jun 1, 2013
I also have a HiAce, a 1999 poptop, which I have fitted out for freecamping. I bought the Collyn Rivers book "Motorhome Electrics & Caravans Too!" and found it invaluable. I concur with comments above in regard to an MPPT or PWM regulator and instal it as close to the batteries as possible (this reduces losses from the panels to the batteries). These regulators are far more efficient than the cheap one that comes with most solar panels.
For your heavy current draw items, Eg fridge, ensure you use large enough wiring, again, to reduce current loss.
If you have any specific questions, PM me - if I can help I will.
HiAceHome said
07:07 PM Jun 25, 2013
Ok. So I bought another regulator but I'm confused by the "temperature sensor". It's just a plug & the instructions make no sense.
Quote: "external temperature sensor probe into the left of the controller temperature probe interface probe placed in similar battery temperature. (Line extension must be built-in devices of the external temperature probe coextensive Otherwise, the controller will control parameters of the temperature compensation of the error"
So I need to attach a probe to the plug & place it near the battery. I get that much, but what kind of probe? Just a wire? Do I have to put something special (a probe) on the end of the wire near the battery? I've searched the net & got no answers
Sorry I posted this in the wrong section. I'll try again.....
I am currently setting up my 1998 HiAce. I have 2x 80w solar panels and a 130ampH battery as well as the normal start battery. They are connected via a switch that I turn on when I drive and try to remember to turn off when I stop. To get it started I bought the cheapest regulator not realizing a more expensive one could make a big difference. Needless to say I run out of power.
Hi HiAceHome.
RedArk make a very reliable second battery solenoid, not that cheap but very reliable. RedArk also no make Solar equipment so a dealer may be able to recommend a suitable regulator as well. having 2 different types of batterys may cause some problem with charging but some expert on here will definatly cover that.
I prefer to do my shopping on eBay because of price, convenience and I find it a much more relaxing way to shop. I'm looking at this regulator
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=Pr3030&_sacat=0&_from=R40
and this solenoid
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=Pr3030&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=Dbs085&_sacat=0
Sorry but I can't work out how to paste links.
What are your thoughts? Has anyone used these products?
Cheers
Leanne
Hi there HiAceHome.
I'll try and keep this simple.
First you need to know how much daily power you need.
We first write down 1.5Amps for the fridge power times operating time of 24hrs equals 36Amps per day. An electric fridge cycles on/of depending on temperature (60% off/40% on) that's why a low current figure. (the rear of your fridge may operating current shown)
So we see we need 36Amps per day. (I add 10% to this figure for cable loses ) Lets call it 40Amps.
To work out the capacity of the battery needed multiply the daily power usage by the number of days you want to go without power and divide by 0.8....so
40Ah * 2 days / 0.8 = 100Ah of bat power power. (the battery capacity is 20% greater than needed as even deep cycle batteries wont last long if fully discharged)
Solar Panels should be sized larger than needed as the sun don't shine all day)
Convert the 40Ah to Watts hour by multiplying by 12V which gives 480Wh. Lets say we have 8 hours of sun so MINIMUM size of panels is 480Wh/8h = 60W Add another 50% for fixed panels or shade giving us 90W.
Solar panels CANNOT be connected directly to batteries as the output is way too high. Use a solar regulator that uses Maximum Point Power Tracking (MPPT) technology and it has in-built multistage battery charging. It should be also placed close to the battery to reduce drop in cables.
Hope this does not confuse too much, but I find it helps if you know a bit about what you want when talking to a sales person. I find Jaycar Electronics very helpful as well as reasonable prices.
Peter
PS. I have done this for a few vans I've owned and seems to work....lol
http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//index.php?cPath=21&osCsid=e97f6bde00f9d339ddf54848bd8dc9fb
MPPT SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER (AU$65):
http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=832
http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com/files/MPPTnotes.pdf
Personally I would check out the CTEK site, some of their battery chargers also work as solar regulators. Gives you a decent battery charger and regulator in one unit. They are great for conditioning batteries and keeping them topped up and in good condition as well as keeping the solar charge under control.
Not sure of the model numbers but I am sure you will find them on the site.
http://www.ctekbatterychargers.com.au/?gclid=CLHTtOCDv7cCFcwgpQodtwkAzg
Cheers
Trevor
Hi again.
Below is the site of Jaycar (I have nothing to do with them, just have purchased all my solar from them and found it ok)
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MP3129
This is the regulator I used with 2 x 80W panels and found it easy to use and not too bad on the pocket ($149.00)
Cheers
Leanne
quote...
I would ALWAYS recommend installing a proper dual battery system relay such as a Redarc "Smart Start" instead of a normal relay (aka solenoid) or a switch such as you have done to isolate the auxiliary battery from the main battery. Click on http://tinyurl.com/maphul3 for more information.
There are many other brands available. Installing one of these will ensure that your main battery will always get priority changing and not leave you with a flat starting battery. You will not have to remember to switch anything when you pull up.
Re the regulator (aka controller) as suggested, the closer to the battery this is installed the better. A PWM or MPPT regulator (these are regulator types, not brands) would be the better option but a "common or garden" variety would do the job. Regardless of the type I would suggest in this installation you keep it simple rather than go for an "all bells and whistles" regulator that would be more appropriate for a more complex system.
end quote.
For your heavy current draw items, Eg fridge, ensure you use large enough wiring, again, to reduce current loss.
If you have any specific questions, PM me - if I can help I will.
Quote: "external temperature sensor probe into the left of the controller temperature probe interface probe placed in similar battery temperature. (Line extension must be built-in devices of the external temperature probe coextensive Otherwise, the controller will control parameters of the temperature compensation of the error"
So I need to attach a probe to the plug & place it near the battery. I get that much, but what kind of probe? Just a wire? Do I have to put something special (a probe) on the end of the wire near the battery? I've searched the net & got no answers