I have a couple of these units, one on the tug & one on the van, no probs as yet.

I also have a smaller on fitted to our shower unit, ( self contained inderpendant unit ). Some time back it jamed & would not go, dismantled it to find some water had got in between the pump & motor into the bearing.

This was an over night event so I was able to clean the rust outof the bearing, sprayed with wd40 , let it soak a little while & was able to move the bearing, powered up the motor without the pump attached Held it upright so bearing was at the bottom & ran motor & continually sprayed some more wd40 to flush it out clean.

You may have something similar going on causing the bearing to be noisey as there is realy nothing in the pump itself to be noisey.

Happy hunting.

JC.

Just read you post back on the old topic about batteries.

If you wish to seperate the two batteries which are start batteries & use one as a accessory her's a simple way to do it.

Fit a H/D remote starter solinoid between the two batteries, this is connected to an ignition on curcit in fuse box & a negative via two small wires.  fit one end of the positive lead between the batteries to one terminal of the solinoid, supply & fit another short pos lead to the other side of solinoid & connect to batt where you removed the first lead from.

The batteries are now isolated , turn on the ignition key & they are reconected so once you start the motor the alternator charge goes to both batt.

Here's the bonus, if you were to have a low starting battery you can easily reconnect the two batteries together for a better start, all you need to make & keep in the glove box is a small lead with a couple of alligater clips, connect one end to a batt positive & the other end to the small positive terminal of the solinoid,( same terminal as the ignition wire ) , this will keep the two batteries connected while starting, remove once started.

A very simple & cheap way to do it.

cheers;

JC

briche wrote:

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Thanks JC, for you're comments, much appreciated. Firstly about the water pump. May be the issue but I've got a spare that I use for pumping water out of a river if needed so I will swap it over and see what eventuates . In regards to the twin battery thing. I have most of the parts needed except the isolator. Have not decieded which way to go yet but you're comments may be the way. Will let you know what happens. Regards Brian

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 No worries Brian, if you decide to go this way let me know as I can take you one step further in a very simply way that will make the system even better.

JC.

Hi JC the system you have described was on my tug when I bought it and although it works very well I would be  interested in any ways you you have to improve it, so if you dont mind adding your improvement to the thread it would be much appreciated.

     Landy

We seem to be running two topics here and at the risk of also being guilty of this I would add a comment on JC01's suggestion re the dual battery set up.

I'd recommend a dual battery isolator or "smart relay" or "smart solenoid" (same thing different name) instead of of just a solenoid to ensure that the starting battery gets priority charging from the alternator.  A dual battery isolator need not be controlled from the ignition circuit as it will not conect the aux battery to the alternator until the main battery has received sufficient charge.

If using an ordinary solenoid make sure it is rated for continuous current flow.

I too carry a short jumper lead so I can jump start from the aux battery if need be (it's an Optima Red Top so it's suitable to do this)

Yep, I'm guilty as stated richo, I apoligize mate.

I just happened to see Briche's post on an early  battery subject , thought I might add a comment on the water pump as I had just replied to that one verses a no return to to the earlier battery subject.

It appears that there are no more comments on the water pump post so we may as well continue with the current subject.

Richo, your other suggested control units are possibily very good as well, however with the old style remote starter solinoid system there are no electronics to fail, this is machenical & very easy to check the function if nessacery.

Ive run a very similar system to this for 28 yrs with no charging problems. It was controled manualy with a H/D master switch mounted on the lower side of the dash & yes I had to remember to switch it as required, this was not a problem & even the lady used to do it as it was on her side. LOL

Here's the improvement for Landy & Briche.

The fitting & setting up of the solinoid is still as I stated . The improvement is with the jump wire for starting.

As most of us have found out at some time or another  a flat starter battery generaly happens at inconvenient times, night , rain, running late etc.

The improvement I'm suggesting is to not make the jump wire that you have to get out & fit. The replacement is to run another wiring circut, & length of twin core will keep things tidy & only needs to be the same guage as used to wire driving lights.

To fit this circuit connect one wire to the positive terminal of the accessory battery, run this wire into the interior of the car to the lower dash , supply & fit a small push button switch to which you connect the two wires of the twin core, one to each terminal.

The remaining wire end that is still near the battery, connect this to the SMALL positive terminal ot the solinoid.This will do the same job as the jump lead only you just have to push & hold the button while starting car when needed .much more convenient.

A further benifit to this is that when a accessory battery is not in use, as when not travelling  &/or no accessory's being used , If you make use of this push button each time you start the car then some power is taken from the acc, battery & this alows some recharge to take place, keeping the accessory battery more active.

A battery that is used every day works better & lasts longer than one that just sits there for extened times doing nothing.

You may ask why the need for a jump wire or this system to be able to connect the second battery when starting as the solinoid is activated when you turn on the key, this is true BUT as you engage the starter on any vehicile ALL accessory circuits are disconected while the starter is in operation. These circuits are reactivated when you release the key to the on position when motor starts.

Think I could have wired one up while I was typing this.LOL

Always seems harder to put things into understandable words than actualy do the job.Hope this is not to confusing, if so I'll try to answer the question.

Happy wiring;

JC.

just checked our Surflo and both are mounted on a hard rubber pad.

Thanks  Jc   great idea, next time I am playing with wires I will make the modification, and your description is just fine no problems understanding it.

Thanks  also to Jimricho. I can see the value in your coments, but as my tug is already set up the simple way, and working satisfactorily,  I will just go with the jump start mod at this stage.

      Landy  

_wombat_ wrote:

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just checked our Surflo and both are mounted on a hard rubber pad.

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  I own five & all rubber mounted.

JC.

briche wrote:

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Thank you JC, I was going to PM you but read you're reply to Landy and all understood. I was going to go the way that Jimricho suggested but also noted the comments about electronics, etc I will now way it all up an see which is the way to go. I was given an electronic isolator but have read some comments about their reliability but I guess to each there own so as to speak. Thanks also noted the comments about the water pump and rubber mounting. So to all thank you for you're words of wisdom and willingness to share. As I have said on a few occasions that's what makes this site work. Regards Brian.

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 Your welcome, CU out there.

JC

I have had a Rotronics (http://www.rotronics.com.au/2nd.4wd12VoltAuxiliaryBattery.htm) fully solid state isolator since 2000 and it has never given any problems (touch wood now that I've said that!). Many of the isolators on the market use a conventional solenoid and only use electronics to detect the voltage levels to control the relay (solenoid).

My overwhelming preference would be to accept the very low risk of a failure of the electronics rather than the much higher risk of a flat starting battery due to it not getting charging priority, especially as the battery gets a bit of age.

There would be thousands of 4WDs out there with this arrangement and to the best of my knowledge failures a quite rare.

PS: You do not have to tap into the ignition circuit to install one of these as the "smarts" in the isolator will determine when it's ok to connect the circuit between the batteries.

Yes Jim, I have a Baintech isolator in my Troopy and like you said, it gives charging priority to the most important battery. I also have a VSR in my boat for the same reason.