After much discussion between my son and I, we've decided not to run the 3 way fridge on gas, but just on a battery which will be mounted in a box on the draw bar. The main reason being that I don't like the idea of fiddling with gas, and levelling etc. I'm also not keen on the idea of the fridge being on the draw bar, as originally planned, because of exposure to the weather. I'd rather it be in the car.
The wiring will have to run from the front of the car right down to the boot, through to the draw bar battery and back to the fridge in the boot.
So...I've copied and pasted the following from Dan's emails re the subject. As you can see, he's suggested asking my friends on this forum. (He has a Nissan Patrol)
'Similar design to ours and is full kit but is it reliable or chinese rubbish i don't know. Maybe ask your forum folk if anyone has used this. (you will be flooded with people saying redarc, this or that *insert favourite name brand here*) but they are exxy. The traxide one has been good to us for 4 or 5 yrs.
Another auto isolator. These kits won't be all we need though as the earth cable is only long enough for engine bay. Needs to run the full length to trailer box. Plus andetson plugs etc. So traxide might still be economical.
-- Edited by Beth54 on Tuesday 17th of May 2011 08:50:45 AM
DeBe said
09:20 AM May 17, 2011
Hi Beth, Need to know what the current draw of the fridge is on 12v? it will be some where on the fridge. Gas electric fridges are rather power hungry as when on 12v they are consuming the full current all the time (not thermostat controlled) Also what size in Ah is your battery. Usualy people only run these fridges on 12v when taveling & use gas when stoped. Daryl
oldtrack123 said
10:15 AM May 17, 2011
Hi Beth
The current demand of 3way upright [even the smallest]makes it impratical to just run off a battery for any thing more than a couple of hrs,unless the battery is being charged
If you intend to camp for a few days you would need a massive battery bank Plus A generator or A big solar panel system
IF you are referring to running the fridge on12v WHILE TRAVELLING ,YES GO FOR IT > MUCH SAFER
You just need heavy cables [size depends on fridge & run length] from tug battery to fridge, heavy connectors [Anderson] NOT STANDARD TRAILER PLUGS, & preferably an automatic isolator to turn fridge "OFF when engine is not running
This should be a seperate circuit from the camper battery charging circuit.
The battery charging circuit should have some means of automatically isolating it from tug battery .this can be another simple ignition controlled relay as below,[for fridge]
Or the more expensive voltage sensing units as described in your links .But if you normally disconnect the car these are hardly necessary
Ooops reread your post it seems you will have fridge in CAR BOOT?
The comments about cooling below will be very valid,do not expect much
The unventilated boot could get very hot
But if that is your intention, simply run heavy cables pos & neg direct to fridge [no need to go to van battery] to fridge with a heavy duty plug & socket [Anderson]With an isolator in the pos line
This isolator can be a simple ignition controlled relay[approx $6]
Remember. the efficiency of these fridges depends on good cooling of the condensor under any form of energy supply
Peter
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Tuesday 17th of May 2011 10:25:41 AM
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Tuesday 17th of May 2011 10:34:34 AM
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Tuesday 17th of May 2011 10:46:26 AM
sparkles said
05:16 PM May 17, 2011
Hi mum
Ok I had heard these types of coolers were heavy on power but didn't know first hand how bad. I have a six pack size one that is omly used when driving, and the fridge is compressor type with DBS.
So... there doesn't appear any point to fitting a DBS at all.
Just run an ignition switched power supply off the car's battery. Easy.
As I see it the big descision is still where to put the fridge. If you put it in the boot it will only be 'on' when on the move. I can't see you getting it out of the boot to set it up on the ground and gas it (can't gas it in the car).
If you want to run gas by day then the trailer is most practical. It is just an anderson plug and metre or so of cabling to run it on 12v on the move, and levelling isn't a big deal as you'll want your bed level anyway.
Thanks for the input folks.
Cheers
Dan
Beth54 said
05:58 PM May 17, 2011
sparkles wrote:
Hi mum Ok I had heard these types of coolers were heavy on power but didn't know first hand how bad. I have a six pack size one that is omly used when driving, and the fridge is compressor type with DBS. So... there doesn't appear any point to fitting a DBS at all. Just run an ignition switched power supply off the car's battery. Easy. As I see it the big descision is still where to put the fridge. If you put it in the boot it will only be 'on' when on the move. I can't see you getting it out of the boot to set it up on the ground and gas it (can't gas it in the car). If you want to run gas by day then the trailer is most practical. It is just an anderson plug and metre or so of cabling to run it on 12v on the move, and levelling isn't a big deal as you'll want your bed level anyway. Thanks for the input folks. Cheers Dan
Thanks son. I'll ring you.
Beth54 said
12:22 PM May 18, 2011
Thanks folks, we're going back to plan A. Mounting the fridge and gas bottle of the draw bar.
PeterD said
05:26 PM May 18, 2011
But don't run it on gas whilst moving. Gas bottles should be off when moving. Power the fridge from the alternator whilst on the move. Get a headlight relay wired in circuit so that power only goes to the fridge whilst the motor is running.
Beth54 said
05:42 PM May 18, 2011
Yep, knew that Peter. Thanks.
jimricho said
06:05 PM May 18, 2011
PeterD wrote:
Get a headlight relay wired in circuit so that power only goes to the fridge whilst the motor is running.
It's amazing how many aren't aware of this and don't have the relay installed. It seems many auto electricians don't bother installing one unless the customer specifically asks for it.
gubby said
06:16 PM May 18, 2011
Jimricho we use our anderson plug for other purposes on different trailers, so we fitted a fridge switch on our caravan, just another thought...
gold dandelion said
09:27 PM May 18, 2011
mention hasnt been made that 12volt is only for traveling really, just to maintain a cool temp. gas will keep your fridge colder.
jimricho said
08:36 AM May 19, 2011
gubby wrote:
Jimricho we use our anderson plug for other purposes on different trailers, so we fitted a fridge switch on our caravan, just another thought...
Is that the "Fidgeswitch" from RV electronics, if so I've been wondering how effective they are in practice as it seems to me this would be a good option for "retro"fitting to rigs without modifying existing wiring in the tug and could be done "DIY" by people with even very limited electrical skills.
(click on underlined link for more info)
jimricho said
08:46 AM May 19, 2011
gold dandelion wrote:
mention hasnt been made that 12volt is only for traveling really, just to maintain a cool temp. gas will keep your fridge colder.
Very true, and this is because there is (obviously) no other option. Gas must never be used while travelling and should be turned off at the cylinder. (I know you're not suggesting otherwise).
Many 3 way owners report that gas performs better than 240v but when 240v (ground power) is available "the price is right" for 240v.
-- Edited by jimricho on Thursday 19th of May 2011 08:48:22 AM
Beth54 said
08:57 AM May 19, 2011
Yes, I realize to plug into car (12V) while running. And 240V while stopped is preferable, but I don't plan on using caravan parks much. I'll be doing free camps mostly. I plan on going to Undara, so I'll get a powered site there, and while I stay with friends on the Tablelands, I'll use the 240V.
The other friends who have the same Aldi fridge have a caravan, so wouldn't have the issues that I have.
Son Dan is going to make some sort of box to protect the fridge from the elements...yes, with air holes too. When it's all done 'llI take some photo's for 'show & tell'.
gubby said
11:57 AM May 19, 2011
jimricho wrote:
Is that the "Fidgeswitch" from RV electronics, if so I've been wondering how effective they are in practice as it seems to me this would be a good option for "retro"fitting to rigs without modifying existing wiring in the tug and could be done "DIY" by people with even very limited electrical skills.
Yes Jim that's the one, all I did was open the external vent behind the fridge cut the 12v wiring and connect the four wires to the switch, I installed it before we went to Tassie for six weeks and had no problems at all. I'm quite happy with it.
Just took a pic to show how easy it is. The switch must be mounted flat like this.
The only problem we had was once after hooking up and heading off I forgot to switch the fridge from 240v to 12v, But that was my fault, not the equipment..
-- Edited by gubby on Thursday 19th of May 2011 02:11:25 PM
Anderson plugs , Had a thing the other day that got my attention. Was useing the anderson plug on the front of the van to run my 12 volt tyre pump to do what you do.. and as I stepped over the drawbar the pump went off. I have a extenion that goes to the car with a anderson on each end.. I gave it a wiggle and it came back on. after.. I had a look in the plug and it was realy green and dirty. So with a small wire brush cleaned the terms. and all was good .. Did all my andersons and some were and some wernt , But all are now "clean" I do have thoes little covers... Just some thing else to look after guys.......
Beth54 said
03:13 PM May 19, 2011
Just as well I'm forwarding all this to Dan. My eyes glaze over when I try to read all this technical stuff!
-- Edited by Beth54 on Thursday 19th of May 2011 03:13:30 PM
sparkles said
04:07 PM May 19, 2011
Hi bobnbev,
Try some dielectric grease to help keep corrosion at bay. The terminals would be silver coated copper.
Cheers
Dan
jimricho said
05:35 PM May 19, 2011
There are steel springs in Anderson plugs that can corrode. I had this happen several years ago when using the anderson plug on the towbar to connect to a boat trailer winch.
Also Thanks Bruce (Gubby) for your report on the Fridgeswitch. I have friends who don't have a relay fitted to their fridge circuit and I now feel confident I can recommend this as solution as it will save them having to involve an auto electrician in the exercise.
I'm hoping someone can help me with this.
After much discussion between my son and I, we've decided not to run the 3 way fridge on gas, but just on a battery which will be mounted in a box on the draw bar. The main reason being that I don't like the idea of fiddling with gas, and levelling etc. I'm also not keen on the idea of the fridge being on the draw bar, as originally planned, because of exposure to the weather. I'd rather it be in the car.
The wiring will have to run from the front of the car right down to the boot, through to the draw bar battery and back to the fridge in the boot.
So...I've copied and pasted the following from Dan's emails re the subject. As you can see, he's suggested asking my friends on this forum. (He has a Nissan Patrol)
'Similar design to ours and is full kit but is it reliable or chinese rubbish i don't know.
Maybe ask your forum folk if anyone has used this. (you will be flooded with people saying redarc, this or that *insert favourite name brand here*) but they are exxy. The traxide one has been good to us for 4 or 5 yrs.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110638977251
Another auto isolator.
These kits won't be all we need though as the earth cable is only long enough for engine bay. Needs to run the full length to trailer box. Plus andetson plugs etc.
So traxide might still be economical.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300497036399
Cheaper again for controller.
Stoll plus cabling etc
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110657867248 '
As Dan has intimated, cost is a big factor.
-- Edited by Beth54 on Tuesday 17th of May 2011 08:50:45 AM
Hi Beth
The current demand of 3way upright [even the smallest]makes it impratical to just run off a battery for any thing more than a couple of hrs,unless the battery is being charged
If you intend to camp for a few days you would need a massive battery bank Plus A generator or A big solar panel system
IF you are referring to running the fridge on12v WHILE TRAVELLING ,YES GO FOR IT > MUCH SAFER
You just need heavy cables [size depends on fridge & run length] from tug battery to fridge, heavy connectors [Anderson] NOT STANDARD TRAILER PLUGS, & preferably an automatic isolator to turn fridge "OFF when engine is not running
This should be a seperate circuit from the camper battery charging circuit.
The battery charging circuit should have some means of automatically isolating it from tug battery .this can be another simple ignition controlled relay as below,[for fridge]
Or the more expensive voltage sensing units as described in your links .But if you normally disconnect the car these are hardly necessary
Ooops reread your post it seems you will have fridge in CAR BOOT?
The comments about cooling below will be very valid,do not expect much
The unventilated boot could get very hot
But if that is your intention, simply run heavy cables pos & neg direct to fridge [no need to go to van battery] to fridge with a heavy duty plug & socket [Anderson]With an isolator in the pos line
This isolator can be a simple ignition controlled relay[approx $6]
Remember. the efficiency of these fridges depends on good cooling of the condensor under any form of energy supply
Peter
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Tuesday 17th of May 2011 10:25:41 AM
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Tuesday 17th of May 2011 10:34:34 AM
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Tuesday 17th of May 2011 10:46:26 AM
Thanks son. I'll ring you.
Thanks folks, we're going back to plan A. Mounting the fridge and gas bottle of the draw bar.
Yep, knew that Peter. Thanks.
It's amazing how many aren't aware of this and don't have the relay installed. It seems many auto electricians don't bother installing one unless the customer specifically asks for it.
Jimricho we use our anderson plug for other purposes on different trailers, so we fitted a fridge switch on our caravan, just another thought...
Is that the "Fidgeswitch" from RV electronics, if so I've been wondering how effective they are in practice as it seems to me this would be a good option for "retro"fitting to rigs without modifying existing wiring in the tug and could be done "DIY" by people with even very limited electrical skills.
(click on underlined link for more info)
Very true, and this is because there is (obviously) no other option. Gas must never be used while travelling and should be turned off at the cylinder. (I know you're not suggesting otherwise).
Many 3 way owners report that gas performs better than 240v but when 240v (ground power) is available "the price is right" for 240v.
-- Edited by jimricho on Thursday 19th of May 2011 08:48:22 AM
Yes, I realize to plug into car (12V) while running. And 240V while stopped is preferable, but I don't plan on using caravan parks much. I'll be doing free camps mostly. I plan on going to Undara, so I'll get a powered site there, and while I stay with friends on the Tablelands, I'll use the 240V.
The other friends who have the same Aldi fridge have a caravan, so wouldn't have the issues that I have.
Son Dan is going to make some sort of box to protect the fridge from the elements...yes, with air holes too. When it's all done 'llI take some photo's for 'show & tell'.
Yes Jim that's the one, all I did was open the external vent behind the fridge cut the 12v wiring and connect the four wires to the switch, I installed it before we went to Tassie for six weeks and had no problems at all. I'm quite happy with it.
Just took a pic to show how easy it is. The switch must be mounted flat like this.
The only problem we had was once after hooking up and heading off I forgot to switch the fridge from 240v to 12v, But that was my fault, not the equipment..
-- Edited by gubby on Thursday 19th of May 2011 02:11:25 PM
Just as well I'm forwarding all this to Dan. My eyes glaze over when I try to read all this technical stuff!
-- Edited by Beth54 on Thursday 19th of May 2011 03:13:30 PM
Also Thanks Bruce (Gubby) for your report on the Fridgeswitch. I have friends who don't have a relay fitted to their fridge circuit and I now feel confident I can recommend this as solution as it will save them having to involve an auto electrician in the exercise.