My 80w solar panel is not producing any power. Had the meter on it (when in full sunlight) reading is "0"
Will have to remove it from the roof to get at the terminals. See iff there are any loose wires or corrosion at the terminals.
I've searched on the net and found an article about fault finding on Solar Panels.
Could be that I might have a "Blocking Diode" that has faulted.
Checking all the wiring from the panel to the contoller and there are no obvious breaks.
Anyone had any experience doing something like this.
Mike
-- Edited by elliemike on Saturday 30th of April 2011 12:15:43 AM
oldtrack123 said
07:59 PM Apr 29, 2011
Hi Mike
1st, disconnect the wiring fromthe panel .
THEN check what voltage you are getting @ the panel itself[in brighr sun]
It should be around 21v.
If that is Ok .connect your amp meter in one line from the panel [still disconnected from the reg etc]& connect other tester lead to other panel wire
Note you can do this @ the reg if it is easly accessable just make sure you do disconnect the solar input pos & neg
A dead short avcross the panel gain in bright sun, you should get about 5amps
If both those readings are ok come back for further advise
Peter
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 29th of April 2011 08:01:50 PM
elliemike said
12:25 AM Apr 30, 2011
Peter
Thanks for that.
I'll not be able to get onto the solar panel job till sometime next week, maybe? But will do as you say when I pull it off.
Got a heap of projects on the go at present. Fridge out, Gas Hob out, Rebuilding (modifying) the double bed, Fitting two batteries, Modifying the stabilisers.
This happens every time we come back from a trip. Big list of tweaks before the next trip.
Think we enjoy ripping things apart, and putting em back together, more than camping.
Regards
and Thanks again
Mike and Ellie
patrolst said
04:34 PM Apr 30, 2011
elliemike wrote:
Peter
Thanks for that.
I'll not be able to get onto the solar panel job till sometime next week, maybe? But will do as you say when I pull it off.
Got a heap of projects on the go at present. Fridge out, Gas Hob out, Rebuilding (modifying) the double bed, Fitting two batteries, Modifying the stabilisers.
This happens every time we come back from a trip. Big list of tweaks before the next trip.
Think we enjoy ripping things apart, and putting em back together, more than camping.
Regards
and Thanks again
Mike and Ellie
Mike
Did you disconnect the wiring that comes from the panel to the regulator before disconnecting your battery?
If not you may have blown the regulator and require a new one. It happened to a friend of mine and he had to replace the regulator.
Regards Jim
elliemike said
05:54 PM Apr 30, 2011
Thanks for your input Jim.
This is a new Regulator I put in about 3 months ago. I first noticed the original little regulator that came with the van was not charging. Also that original Reg. was possably cooked !! As I'd had a bit of 12v wiring altered, about October of last year. Only noticed the green charge light was not on in full sunlight, just before (about 3 days before) we headed East in January.
So bought a new Regulator. Installed it as per instructions , but no charge from the panel still. Did not have time to remove the panel off the roof at the time to check that. As we were heading for Tamania I did not want to chance any leaks in the roof from a rushed job. Ellie tells me that this coming week is clear of rain in the forecast, So I will get into the panel on Monday.
Regards
Mike
elliemike said
11:08 PM May 2, 2011
Well I got stuck in this morning, and prised the Panel from the roof. That is, I ran a Stanley knife around the sealing, and it came free with a slight bit of leverage.
Lot of water/moisture under the panel in the frame.
The junction box was full of green copper corrosion.
The panel was still able to produce 20.44 v when I put it in full sunlight with the meter on the teminals
Also I found the wire from the connections to the reg, was fitted though the junction box without a rubber grommet in the hole. The J/box is a plastic one, but it had still worn a big piece of insulation off the positive red wire where it passed through the hole.
The Positive- red wire was full of creeping corrosion for about 300 mm inside the insulation, and copper wire broken.
I stripped all the wire out and replaced it. About 3 metres in all to the first crimped connection joiners.
Cleaned up the J-box and terminals. Replaced the blocking diode as well, as it was in a sorry state but still working.
All this job was reasonably easy, just time, patience, and a trip to the 12v shop.
The sun had gone over the roof by the time I had it connected up this arvo.
So tomorrow I will see what it is doing now it is connected to the reg. If all is OK I will re set and seal it on the roof again tomorrow.
Let you know how I get on.
Regards
Mike
patrolst said
03:54 PM May 3, 2011
Hi Mike
Make sure you fit the blocking diode back in the right way if it is installed the wrong way the panel won't work.
I know as I installed one of mine the wrong way.
Regards Jim
elliemike said
05:20 PM May 3, 2011
patrolst wrote:
Hi Mike
Make sure you fit the blocking diode back in the right way if it is installed the wrong way the panel won't work.
I know as I installed one of mine the wrong way.
Regards Jim
Thanks Jim
There is a circuit diagram on the back of the panel alongside the J/box with schematic of the teminals and Diode. Fairly failsafe if you follow that.
The beauty of these modern cell phones is having a camera and instant playback. I photograph stuff like this before undoing terminals and removing bits.
I also (out of habit) made a mudmap in my notebook. Learnt my lessons the hard way when I was a "smart aced" apprentice. Ripping into gear without any forethought, and looking stupid wondering where all the bits go later.
We've all done it !!!!!!
Regards
Mike
P.S. My mate worked where they made "Chieftain Tanks" They had an apprentice sent to them from Germany for some experience on the tanks gearbox.
He had to strip one down, and the reassemble it as training test.
He did all the right things with Notes, Sketches, and Manuals, as you do when the eyes of the world are on you.
But the other apprentices in Leyland's had slipped a helical gear from and old Austin A40 gearbox onto the table where all the bits were neatly laid out.
Then watched the poor sod suffer in silence. "Wonder where this bit goes ??????
B/stards
elliemike said
07:05 PM May 5, 2011
Yep all up, running, and charging away merrily now.
Regards
and thenks again
Mike
patrolst said
06:33 PM May 7, 2011
Hi Mike
Good to hear that all is working.
What was the cause of the malfunction?
Regards Jim
elliemike said
07:01 PM May 7, 2011
patrolst wrote:
Hi Mike
Good to hear that all is working.
What was the cause of the malfunction?
Regards Jim
Jim The positive wire was broken completely where it passed through the hole in the Junction box. No grommet fitted. It also was full of creeping corrosion when I stripped the complete wire out it was green corrosion for about 300 mm down inside the plastic coating. The copper falling apart.
Also the panel had been fixed hard onto the roof with Sikaflex. Probably for drainage reasons. A 100mm gap in the Sikaflex sealing Fillet was left open. This was centere of the forward faceing alluminium panel frame. That is the edge just behind the long roof dome window you can see in my Avatar. The gap was useless if that is what it was there for. I might have been able to force a hacksaw blade through it. Obviously water was getting in but not getting out. The J/box lid is not a sealable type, and with the Avan stored (roof flat) the rain water would pond in the frame under the panel.
Refitted the panel with good drainage this time, and a bit of air flow as well.
Regards
Mike
Wombat 280 said
10:11 PM May 16, 2011
It's a bugger when they use standard copper wire when it's exposed like that . I buy my wire from a marine outlet when doing exposed work like that, little bit more expensive but a guaranteed long-term job is assured .
03_troopy said
07:00 PM May 23, 2011
Wombat 280 wrote:
It's a bugger when they use standard copper wire when it's exposed like that . I buy my wire from a marine outlet when doing exposed work like that, little bit more expensive but a guaranteed long-term job is assured .
Best to seal every joint with some type of non corrosive sealant (silicone will do but make sure it's the NON acid cure type) and dual layer heatshrink is good over wire joints and crimp connections) Even tinned copper wire will corrode in wet enviroments, but it is definitely better than straight copper. Silicone spray or Lanox spray is also pretty good where sealants won't work ie termnal blocks.
PeterD said
04:12 PM May 26, 2011
Sticking the panel to the roof is the wrong thing to do. There should be a 25 - 30 mm gap between the back of the panel and the roof. Without that ventilation the panel heats up and reduces the capability of the panel somewhat.
elliemike said
04:39 PM May 26, 2011
PeterD wrote:
Sticking the panel to the roof is the wrong thing to do. There should be a 25 - 30 mm gap between the back of the panel and the roof. Without that ventilation the panel heats up and reduces the capability of the panel somewhat.
Peter
The panel is mounted in the Alluminum frame, the glass panel being 30 mm off the roof. It was the standard Ally frame that was hard on the roof and filling up with water.
I refitted it, With adequate airflow under the frame, and now about 35 mm between the roof, and back of Solar Panel. No chance of water accumulating now.
My 80w solar panel is not producing any power. Had the meter on it (when in full sunlight) reading is "0"
Will have to remove it from the roof to get at the terminals. See iff there are any loose wires or corrosion at the terminals.
I've searched on the net and found an article about fault finding on Solar Panels.
Could be that I might have a "Blocking Diode" that has faulted.
Checking all the wiring from the panel to the contoller and there are no obvious breaks.
Anyone had any experience doing something like this.
Mike
-- Edited by elliemike on Saturday 30th of April 2011 12:15:43 AM
Hi Mike
1st, disconnect the wiring fromthe panel .
THEN check what voltage you are getting @ the panel itself[in brighr sun]
It should be around 21v.
If that is Ok .connect your amp meter in one line from the panel [still disconnected from the reg etc]& connect other tester lead to other panel wire
Note you can do this @ the reg if it is easly accessable just make sure you do disconnect the solar input pos & neg
A dead short avcross the panel gain in bright sun, you should get about 5amps
If both those readings are ok come back for further advise
Peter
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 29th of April 2011 08:01:50 PM
Peter
Thanks for that.
I'll not be able to get onto the solar panel job till sometime next week, maybe? But will do as you say when I pull it off.
Got a heap of projects on the go at present. Fridge out, Gas Hob out, Rebuilding (modifying) the double bed, Fitting two batteries, Modifying the stabilisers.
This happens every time we come back from a trip. Big list of tweaks before the next trip.
Think we enjoy ripping things apart, and putting em back together, more than camping.
Regards
and Thanks again
Mike and Ellie
Mike
Did you disconnect the wiring that comes from the panel to the regulator before disconnecting your battery?
If not you may have blown the regulator and require a new one. It happened to a friend of mine and he had to replace the regulator.
Regards Jim
Thanks for your input Jim.
This is a new Regulator I put in about 3 months ago. I first noticed the original little regulator that came with the van was not charging. Also that original Reg. was possably cooked !! As I'd had a bit of 12v wiring altered, about October of last year. Only noticed the green charge light was not on in full sunlight, just before (about 3 days before) we headed East in January.
So bought a new Regulator. Installed it as per instructions , but no charge from the panel still. Did not have time to remove the panel off the roof at the time to check that. As we were heading for Tamania I did not want to chance any leaks in the roof from a rushed job. Ellie tells me that this coming week is clear of rain in the forecast, So I will get into the panel on Monday.
Regards
Mike
Well I got stuck in this morning, and prised the Panel from the roof. That is, I ran a Stanley knife around the sealing, and it came free with a slight bit of leverage.
Lot of water/moisture under the panel in the frame.
The junction box was full of green copper corrosion.
The panel was still able to produce 20.44 v when I put it in full sunlight with the meter on the teminals
Also I found the wire from the connections to the reg, was fitted though the junction box without a rubber grommet in the hole. The J/box is a plastic one, but it had still worn a big piece of insulation off the positive red wire where it passed through the hole.
The Positive- red wire was full of creeping corrosion for about 300 mm inside the insulation, and copper wire broken.
I stripped all the wire out and replaced it. About 3 metres in all to the first crimped connection joiners.
Cleaned up the J-box and terminals. Replaced the blocking diode as well, as it was in a sorry state but still working.
All this job was reasonably easy, just time, patience, and a trip to the 12v shop.
The sun had gone over the roof by the time I had it connected up this arvo.
So tomorrow I will see what it is doing now it is connected to the reg. If all is OK I will re set and seal it on the roof again tomorrow.
Let you know how I get on.
Regards
Mike
Hi Mike
Make sure you fit the blocking diode back in the right way if it is installed the wrong way the panel won't work.
I know as I installed one of mine the wrong way.
Regards Jim
Thanks Jim
There is a circuit diagram on the back of the panel alongside the J/box with schematic of the teminals and Diode. Fairly failsafe if you follow that.
The beauty of these modern cell phones is having a camera and instant playback. I photograph stuff like this before undoing terminals and removing bits.
I also (out of habit) made a mudmap in my notebook. Learnt my lessons the hard way when I was a "smart aced" apprentice. Ripping into gear without any forethought, and looking stupid wondering where all the bits go later.
We've all done it !!!!!!
Regards
Mike
P.S. My mate worked where they made "Chieftain Tanks" They had an apprentice sent to them from Germany for some experience on the tanks gearbox.
He had to strip one down, and the reassemble it as training test.
He did all the right things with Notes, Sketches, and Manuals, as you do when the eyes of the world are on you.
But the other apprentices in Leyland's had slipped a helical gear from and old Austin A40 gearbox onto the table where all the bits were neatly laid out.
Then watched the poor sod suffer in silence. "Wonder where this bit goes ??????
B/stards
Yep all up, running, and charging away merrily now.
Regards
and thenks again
Mike
Hi Mike
Good to hear that all is working.
What was the cause of the malfunction?
Regards Jim
Jim The positive wire was broken completely where it passed through the hole in the Junction box. No grommet fitted. It also was full of creeping corrosion when I stripped the complete wire out it was green corrosion for about 300 mm down inside the plastic coating. The copper falling apart.
Also the panel had been fixed hard onto the roof with Sikaflex. Probably for drainage reasons. A 100mm gap in the Sikaflex sealing Fillet was left open. This was centere of the forward faceing alluminium panel frame. That is the edge just behind the long roof dome window you can see in my Avatar. The gap was useless if that is what it was there for. I might have been able to force a hacksaw blade through it. Obviously water was getting in but not getting out. The J/box lid is not a sealable type, and with the Avan stored (roof flat) the rain water would pond in the frame under the panel.
Refitted the panel with good drainage this time, and a bit of air flow as well.
Regards
Mike
Best to seal every joint with some type of non corrosive sealant (silicone will do but make sure it's the NON acid cure type) and dual layer heatshrink is good over wire joints and crimp connections) Even tinned copper wire will corrode in wet enviroments, but it is definitely better than straight copper. Silicone spray or Lanox spray is also pretty good where sealants won't work ie termnal blocks.
Peter
The panel is mounted in the Alluminum frame, the glass panel being 30 mm off the roof. It was the standard Ally frame that was hard on the roof and filling up with water.
I refitted it, With adequate airflow under the frame, and now about 35 mm between the roof, and back of Solar Panel. No chance of water accumulating now.
Regards
Mike