Bought a 160w panel the folds up ( store it in the Suzuki we tow)
It is a Kings model so it came with a PWM Controller that was fitted on the inside of the panels.
All good so far except
The cable they used to connect to the battery via the Anderson plug was way to small I changed it out for 6mm
Change to a MTTP Controller , mounted it in the same spot as the Kings PWM unit.
Made up a extention lead of 4 mts so i can keep the panels in full sun , dont need to use it all the time.
the connection on the motorhome is a Anderson Connector the connects straight to the battery and the lead from the panel connects straight in to that.
Nice and simple
I have more than doubled the amperage output by swapping to a MTTP controller.
I dont concern myself to much with voltage drop, using good 6mm cable and Anderson Connectors.
Its easy to over complicate it , the reality of it is "IF THE SUN DONT SHINE YOU IN THE **** "
TimTim said
04:42 PM Sep 27, 2022
Hi Shakey,
I loved Justalads post as it is simple. As he said it is easy to over complicate it and this can scare the poop out of someone who doesn't know too much.
Firstly, go buy a solar panel. I showed you a BCF panel but there are ones from Supercheap with an MPPT controller but don't ask me how good they are but the reviews seem good.
I have recommended these as it is easy to take things back under warranty but fingers crossed you won't need to.
Secondly I suggested plugging it into the rear Anderson plug to see if it works. I didn't say this blindly because when you do the world isn't going to fall apart. Only two things will happen, either the solar controller will light up and that will show you have a direct connection through to the battery or it will not light up which will show it is connected to your PL20. My money will be on the former. If you send us a phone of your battery connections we may be able to determine from that or if you have a multi meter then you can test the Anderson plug.
In any case, as I previously said your best option is to connect your solar controller next to the batteries in the front boot and run any extension cable from there.
Tim
PS sry but you will have to paste and copy the link
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 27th of September 2022 04:43:40 PM
Plain Truth said
08:49 PM Sep 27, 2022
Hi Shakey, I don't bother to much with the technical jargon.
I fitted an Anderson plug on the caravan and one on the Bullbar of the car,that way I don't have to keep lifting the bonnet to connect to the battery
Brought a light weight 150 watt. folding solar panel,from Kissass came with a PWM controller on the back which you can bypass,which I do now as a got a mppt controller that I connect close to the battery source.
Will be looking to put a quality panel with mppt controller. Im going to make up connection at the batteries as suggested.
What is considered a quality panel ?
Im also looking to change my plasmatronic PL20. Currently it is inside the van about half way between solar panels and batteries.
Can I just put in same location?
Will the updating of the controller make it more efficient?
Several questions here, but this should be the end.
Cheers
Whenarewethere said
06:30 AM Sep 28, 2022
Put the controller as near the batteries as possible so the charging profile works the best. If it has to be a few metres away at least run some 6awg cable.
You can read the things I did to make my setup as efficient as possible:
Just a little off topic. I have 3 x 120 amp agm batteries, how I dont know as I purchased van earlier in the year.
I have a 165 litre compressor fridge.
Yesterday I looked at solar controller and it read 13.8 v
About 4pm yesterday I turned the fridge on. It only had three 1 litre bottles of water in it.
This morning at around 7am I again looked at solar controller and it read 12.1 v
Is this normal usage or do I have concerns that need to be addressed
Whenarewethere said
09:45 AM Sep 28, 2022
Charge all 3 batteries up together. All 3 should have exactly the same length of wire to the charger. With an odd number of batteries really the only way is to wire to a common point for both negative & positive, then wire your charger & load to there.
Anyway, once charged seperate the 3 batteries, say overnight & in the morning measure the voltage on each of the 3 batteries, without any loads on any battery. You will get a stable voltage. One battery could be stuffing up the other 2. Then go from there.
Your need to slice & divide to measure things otherwise you will never narrow down the problem.
-- Edited by Whenarewethere on Wednesday 28th of September 2022 09:47:23 AM
Brodie Allen said
12:48 PM Oct 12, 2022
Google ATEM POWER - portable solar.
I have the $285 kit - very convenient - soft briefcase appearance and easy to use.
200 watt.
Very efficient output.
3rd lot - best by a huge margin.
Brodie
-- Edited by Brodie Allen on Wednesday 12th of October 2022 12:55:41 PM
Whenarewethere said
12:59 PM Oct 12, 2022
& what is the actual output with your clamp meter?
Hi Shakey
I have done similar to what you chasing
Bought a 160w panel the folds up ( store it in the Suzuki we tow)
It is a Kings model so it came with a PWM Controller that was fitted on the inside of the panels.
All good so far except
The cable they used to connect to the battery via the Anderson plug was way to small I changed it out for 6mm
Change to a MTTP Controller , mounted it in the same spot as the Kings PWM unit.
Made up a extention lead of 4 mts so i can keep the panels in full sun , dont need to use it all the time.
the connection on the motorhome is a Anderson Connector the connects straight to the battery and the lead from the panel connects straight in to that.
Nice and simple
I have more than doubled the amperage output by swapping to a MTTP controller.
I dont concern myself to much with voltage drop, using good 6mm cable and Anderson Connectors.
Its easy to over complicate it , the reality of it is "IF THE SUN DONT SHINE YOU IN THE **** "
Hi Shakey,
I loved Justalads post as it is simple. As he said it is easy to over complicate it and this can scare the poop out of someone who doesn't know too much.
Firstly, go buy a solar panel. I showed you a BCF panel but there are ones from Supercheap with an MPPT controller but don't ask me how good they are but the reviews seem good.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/ridge-ryder-ridge-ryder-solar-battery-charger-kit-160-watt/580636.html
I have recommended these as it is easy to take things back under warranty but fingers crossed you won't need to.
Secondly I suggested plugging it into the rear Anderson plug to see if it works. I didn't say this blindly because when you do the world isn't going to fall apart. Only two things will happen, either the solar controller will light up and that will show you have a direct connection through to the battery or it will not light up which will show it is connected to your PL20. My money will be on the former. If you send us a phone of your battery connections we may be able to determine from that or if you have a multi meter then you can test the Anderson plug.
In any case, as I previously said your best option is to connect your solar controller next to the batteries in the front boot and run any extension cable from there.
Tim
PS sry but you will have to paste and copy the link
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 27th of September 2022 04:43:40 PM
Hi Shakey, I don't bother to much with the technical jargon.
I fitted an Anderson plug on the caravan and one on the Bullbar of the car,that way I don't have to keep lifting the bonnet to connect to the battery
Brought a light weight 150 watt. folding solar panel,from Kissass came with a PWM controller on the back which you can bypass,which I do now as a got a mppt controller that I connect close to the battery source.
Works a treat,does everything I want, to easy.
Will be looking to put a quality panel with mppt controller. Im going to make up connection at the batteries as suggested.
What is considered a quality panel ?
Im also looking to change my plasmatronic PL20. Currently it is inside the van about half way between solar panels and batteries.
Can I just put in same location?
Will the updating of the controller make it more efficient?
Several questions here, but this should be the end.
Cheers
Put the controller as near the batteries as possible so the charging profile works the best. If it has to be a few metres away at least run some 6awg cable.
You can read the things I did to make my setup as efficient as possible:
https://thegreynomads.activeboard.com/t65231112/custom-6x20-watts-solar-setup-with-mppt/
I have a 165 litre compressor fridge.
Yesterday I looked at solar controller and it read 13.8 v
About 4pm yesterday I turned the fridge on. It only had three 1 litre bottles of water in it.
This morning at around 7am I again looked at solar controller and it read 12.1 v
Is this normal usage or do I have concerns that need to be addressed
Charge all 3 batteries up together. All 3 should have exactly the same length of wire to the charger. With an odd number of batteries really the only way is to wire to a common point for both negative & positive, then wire your charger & load to there.
Anyway, once charged seperate the 3 batteries, say overnight & in the morning measure the voltage on each of the 3 batteries, without any loads on any battery. You will get a stable voltage. One battery could be stuffing up the other 2. Then go from there.
Your need to slice & divide to measure things otherwise you will never narrow down the problem.
-- Edited by Whenarewethere on Wednesday 28th of September 2022 09:47:23 AM
Google ATEM POWER - portable solar.
I have the $285 kit - very convenient - soft briefcase appearance and easy to use.
200 watt.
Very efficient output.
3rd lot - best by a huge margin.
Brodie
-- Edited by Brodie Allen on Wednesday 12th of October 2022 12:55:41 PM
& what is the actual output with your clamp meter?