A dummies guide to replacing my hot water anode ...
Delta18 said
10:52 PM Mar 24, 2014
I learnt there is a HARD rod inside my Anode and it would not break off if I left it a bit longer before changing.
I don't really give a Flying FFFFFFFFFF.......ig what it is made of but my education is complete re: Anodes with that info.
DEBnWEG said
11:54 PM Mar 24, 2014
I really appreciate ALL the feedback and passions expressed, apologies if I started a war between forum members, it was not my intention.
Thanks to EVERYONE for taking the time to respond, I'm here to learn lots and where I can, provide my knowledge on areas raised in the forum.
Regards - Weg.
oldtrack123 said
12:19 AM Mar 25, 2014
HI Wegs
No apolgy needed from you
Hope you did learn a lot.
AND do not be frightened to post again
it is very common for threads to drift a little off the original question, but that often supplies good additional info .
PS .Tech people just LUV a good" discussion"
Phil C said
08:36 PM Mar 25, 2014
Yipes!!! can open, worms everywhere. Over a bloody anode replacement... Boys and Girls lets get our egos on hold!
Cupie said
07:16 PM Mar 27, 2014
oldtrack123 wrote:
HI Delta
THe Type to use can depend on the water quailty
Magnesium is the best, BUT
Magnesium will have a very short life if used with highly mineralised water
Aluminium is often used in that situation, BUT some find the water has an odour
Of course like ALL hot water systems it is inadvisable to drink the water
You will find they general loss material close to the thread first , this is to be expected as the small area of non lined steel of the tank & inlet socket are reacting
THAT area can become quite bare, but is ok, as long as solid Magnesium is left on the remainder
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Monday 24th of March 2014 04:25:51 PM
Hi ..
I often wondered why the rods always loose material close to the thread. I check mine every three to six months & used to replace them if I could see the centre core.
I just buy whatever ones that Coast to Coast or Camec have ... not sure if aluminium or magnesium.
I never release the pressure when changing the rod. I figure that it helps eject some of the crap from the tank. I have thought of running the water thru the system with the anode removed to help flush the tank out, but always forget to try. Maybe next time.
To keep the rod straight when I screw it back in, I put a small nut inside the socket so that it holds the rod straight as I start the thread.
I always leave the tank empty when not on the road & never drink water from a HWS at home or in the van.
Can I use ordinary household flick mixer taps in the van. ie. Is the low pressure from the van's 12v pump a problem.?
oldbobsbus said
07:59 PM Mar 27, 2014
Cupie asked,
Can I use ordinary household flick mixer taps in the van. ie. Is the low pressure from the van's 12v pump a problem.?
Not a problem at all that's all I ever use..
Cupie said
08:04 PM Mar 27, 2014
oldbobsbus wrote:
Cupie asked,
Can I use ordinary household flick mixer taps in the van. ie. Is the low pressure from the van's 12v pump a problem.?
Not a problem at all that's all I ever use..
Thanks for that.
My 13yo Jayco ones are starting to weep & I am informed that they can't be repaired.
It would be good to have some nice new shiny modern ones.
I don't really give a Flying FFFFFFFFFF.......ig what it is made of but my education is complete re: Anodes with that info.
Thanks to EVERYONE for taking the time to respond, I'm here to learn lots and where I can, provide my knowledge on areas raised in the forum.
Regards - Weg.
HI Wegs
No apolgy needed from you
Hope you did learn a lot.
AND do not be frightened to post again
it is very common for threads to drift a little off the original question, but that often supplies good additional info .
PS .Tech people just LUV a good" discussion"
Hi ..
I often wondered why the rods always loose material close to the thread. I check mine every three to six months & used to replace them if I could see the centre core.
I just buy whatever ones that Coast to Coast or Camec have ... not sure if aluminium or magnesium.
I never release the pressure when changing the rod. I figure that it helps eject some of the crap from the tank. I have thought of running the water thru the system with the anode removed to help flush the tank out, but always forget to try. Maybe next time.
To keep the rod straight when I screw it back in, I put a small nut inside the socket so that it holds the rod straight as I start the thread.
I always leave the tank empty when not on the road & never drink water from a HWS at home or in the van.
Can I use ordinary household flick mixer taps in the van. ie. Is the low pressure from the van's 12v pump a problem.?
Cupie asked,
Can I use ordinary household flick mixer taps in the van. ie. Is the low pressure from the van's 12v pump a problem.?
Not a problem at all that's all I ever use..
Thanks for that.
My 13yo Jayco ones are starting to weep & I am informed that they can't be repaired.
It would be good to have some nice new shiny modern ones.
Another job off the 'To Do' list.