We were originally going to have solar fitted to our campervan but are now considering a portable system. Our batteries already charge while driving & this is as a back up if we decide to park for a day or 2.
Generally with work we only get a few days off at a time so we do a lot of driving and don't spend that long in each place, but sometimes we like to spend a couple of days in the 1 spot.
I was going to say, that they look OK, go for it, but there is this to consider :- They can get stolen if you are not about watching them.
You have a camper van, is it a Jayco?, what power are you using, or what appliances are you running that consumes the power.
I'm thinking maybe a second battery may be a better investment, less likely to get stolen.
Charged up at home before your trip.
SnowT said
06:07 PM Jan 14, 2015
Make sure the Panel does what it is rated for...
- The solar Regulator should be mounted near the Battery Not on the Panel...
- the Cable size seems to be what I would call Fly-scat cabling.. thin and useless[will have a voltage drop..]
The cable out of the regulator seem to be a 4-6mm2 while the cable after the Mc4 connectors seem to be 2.5mm2... Not good..
The Said advertised Cost is actually the retail cost not a saving if you shop around.. $1.20 to $1.50 per watt...
It's your money....
Juergen
Woolly said
06:19 PM Jan 14, 2015
Thanks guys
Iana - it is a Fiat Ducato camper that we are doing ourselves. It already has 2 x100ah batteries that charge while driving, all we are running is 12v compressor fridge, led lights, fan & radio.
Haven't had a problem with running out but generally we are on the road everyday so they get charged, the panels were if we decided to park up[ for a couple of days.
SnowT- thanks for that. Do you happen to know of any good portable panel kits or is it a case of installing permanent to get something that is worthwhile.
Treecrest14 said
08:30 PM Jan 14, 2015
I have a portable solar panel which I secure to our van with some stainless steel handbrake cable and lock. It is not heavy and basically is designed to stop the opportunist, but like all things, if really are prepared, then it might get stolen!
SnowT said
11:45 PM Jan 14, 2015
There are a few Member's that actually use.. What I would call a permanent Solar panel as a portable..
- They have the Solar Regulator Fixed near the Batteries and use a Water proof anderson plug to hook up to it.. They also use a 4 or 6mm2 cable to hook them up..
The issue is security.. Portable panels seem to make an interesting thing to steal, so they need to secured in such a way that will deter the opportunist thief.. If someone is determined to steal it they will work at it..
A portable panel will give you a better charge as long as you chase the sun.. A fixed Panel will at most give you 70% efficiency and in most case 50%..
Roof mounted Solar Panels can be used as a Tropical Roof to help keep the sun off the roof... I have a Tropical Roof of Panels..
Juergen
Jaahn said
11:36 AM Jan 15, 2015
SnowT wrote:
Make sure the Panel does what it is rated for...
- The solar Regulator should be mounted near the Battery Not on the Panel... - the Cable size seems to be what I would call Fly-scat cabling.. thin and useless[will have a voltage drop..] The cable out of the regulator seem to be a 4-6mm2 while the cable after the Mc4 connectors seem to be 2.5mm2... Not good..
The Said advertised Cost is actually the retail cost not a saving if you shop around.. $1.20 to $1.50 per watt... It's your money.... Juergen
I would agree with these comments generally.
My experience with portable panels is this. I use 4x 80w panels. I had two which is enough for sunny weather but now have 4. Just standard 12v roof panels. Use them in pairs to get the 24v for my truck system. I had them hinged together like those but seperated them because they were too heavy together, for comfortable handling and lifting to put away. So feel the weight before buying.
It does pay to use generous size cables as the losses can be bigger than fixed panels as the wires are longer. I have the regulator in the battery control box and connect to it with a plug and socket that is accessed out under the truck. I do not use the original panel connectors as they are too hard to pull apart easily. I ran some twin core cable and a 4 into one box to connect them to the main cable.
For some security I also have a 4mm stainless steel boating cable with an eye formed at each end, swaged by the boating shop, so I can thread it through some holes in the panel frames and then lock it to the truck or a fence etc. It is 6m long and was not expensive. Stops the normal thieves.
You can buy 80w panels for around $110 each free freight if you look. or 100 w for a bit more. Buy a better MPPT regulator. Just my thoughts !!
Jaahn
-- Edited by Jaahn on Thursday 15th of January 2015 11:45:41 AM
moblet said
11:20 AM Jan 27, 2015
Have you measured your battery voltage after a day or two camped to confirm that you really need the panels?
Basically I'm going to echo everyone else.
I would not buy that kit. You'll get better charging performance, including higher battery voltage, with the controller wired close to the battery rather than at the panels. This is also more robust - I started out with a controller mounted on the panels and with use the terminals work loose and the wire ends break off, either of which can result in short circuits, not to mention failing to charge the battery - and more flexible as you can connect say an Anderson plug to the controller and then easily plug in any solar panel of suitable specification. Panels are typically sold with waterproof MC4 connectors on their cables, and MC4 double adapters (for dual panel setups) and MC4-to-Anderson cables are readily available.
Make sure you can physically handle the size and weight of whatever you purchase. 2x80W ain't tiny. The seller doesn't appear to have stated the weight in that listing.
LucyCoffill said
06:27 PM Feb 20, 2015
Woolly wrote:
We were originally going to have solar fitted to our campervan but are now considering a portable system. Our batteries already charge while driving & this is as a back up if we decide to park for a day or 2.
Generally with work we only get a few days off at a time so we do a lot of driving and don't spend that long in each place, but sometimes we like to spend a couple of days in the 1 spot.
Ranging from small device charging to large heavy duty backup power we would need to make use of the freely available solar power that can be easily obtained in the place where we might halt for a day or two. I have a portable solar panel kit bought form Getbunny which is fitted to our campervan. It charges through 3 stage charging cycle, protecting battery and extends the life of the battery.
madaboutled said
10:15 AM Feb 21, 2015
I agree with what everbody has said so far in regards to the solar controller "needs to be near the battery". As far as price goes, you generally get what you pay for, cheaper kits usually mean cheaper components. IMHO Rich Solar panels are one of the best brands coming out of China, as they are made to specs by Rich Rolar Australia. The ad say from Germany, maybe some of the parts are??? who knows. The write up doesn't really give much info about the controller, but, by the pictures it looks to me like a basic one.
So I'd suggest if you were to got with this kit to get a new MPPT controller, one with an LCD panel that gives you some useful basic information and as the others have said mount it near the batteries. Then at a glance you can see state of the battery bank, charge rate etc... I have Rich Solar panels myself and have helped a few people set them up, everybody including myself are very happy with them.
Personally, I'm lazy, I have mine permanently mounted to save the hassle of getting them out when needed, my luck I'd sleep in and loose half the day's sunlight.
shakey55 said
04:25 PM Sep 25, 2022
I understand that this is an old post, but hopefully someone will look at it and help me.
I have a 2011 New Age Big Red 19. There are two panels on the roof (unsure of size) running through a Plasmatronics PL20 solar controller (yes ancient but still doing its job until I one day upgrade to lithium.
I want to buy a portable solar panel to bolster my solar input when off-grid. I have a grey Anderson plug on the side of the van, no blue plug from what I can see.
1. What are good brand portable panels
2. What size should I get
3. Can I plug direct into grey Anderson plug
4. Will I need a panel with a mppt controller attached
5. If I wanted to move the panel following the sun some distance from my van what cable should I attach to panel/controller
Im very new to this, so I hope I have explained my situation correctly and asked the right questions.
Any help will be appreciated
Whenarewethere said
05:12 PM Sep 25, 2022
I think you are approaching this from the wrong way.
What are your loads. How many AH do you have. What is the solar input, at least measure the surface area without falling off a ladder, to get some idea.
On our last 3 month trip we didn't use the solar panels once. The DC-DC charger was ideal as we only stayed put for a maximum of 4 days.
The length of cable is determined by the cross sectional area & the total distance of both + & - so if you want to reach the sun at 12 metres, it is 24 metres. Not to forget the wiring in the van. You can always use your jumper leads for extra reach.
There is nothing wrong with lead acid batteries unless you have payload issues, but quite frankly throw some rubbish out first.
The Travelling Dillberries said
06:59 PM Sep 25, 2022
shakey55 wrote:
I understand that this is an old post, but hopefully someone will look at it and help me.
I have a 2011 New Age Big Red 19. There are two panels on the roof (unsure of size) running through a Plasmatronics PL20 solar controller (yes ancient but still doing its job until I one day upgrade to lithium.
I want to buy a portable solar panel to bolster my solar input when off-grid. I have a grey Anderson plug on the side of the van, no blue plug from what I can see.
1. What are good brand portable panels 2. What size should I get 3. Can I plug direct into grey Anderson plug 4. Will I need a panel with a mppt controller attached 5. If I wanted to move the panel following the sun some distance from my van what cable should I attach to panel/controller
Im very new to this, so I hope I have explained my situation correctly and asked the right questions.
Any help will be appreciated
Hi Shakey, to answer your questions:
Have a look at the Ridge Ryder Solar Panels at supercheap, they will do the job. You'll have to decide if you want a rigid or flexible panel, around 150--160watt will do. They also have made up extension leads, 6mmsquared is ample for a 5metre lead.
The grey Anderson plug may be a 12volt supply or it may be an input to your solar regulator. Get it checked out. You need it to be an Input to the Pl20. I installed an Anderson on the drawbar (using 16mm squared cable), found it was ideal, just move the panel around following the sun.
I would upgrade the PL20 to an MPPT, ensuring you locate it adjacent the battery/s. Some of their (Supercheap) panels come with an included MPPT regulator.
Note: it is worthwhile joining the Supercheap club (if your not a member) save heaps.
Cheers
Chris.
TimTim said
06:59 AM Sep 26, 2022
shakey55 wrote:
I understand that this is an old post, but hopefully someone will look at it and help me.
I have a 2011 New Age Big Red 19. There are two panels on the roof (unsure of size) running through a Plasmatronics PL20 solar controller (yes ancient but still doing its job until I one day upgrade to lithium.
I want to buy a portable solar panel to bolster my solar input when off-grid. I have a grey Anderson plug on the side of the van, no blue plug from what I can see.
1. What are good brand portable panels 2. What size should I get 3. Can I plug direct into grey Anderson plug 4. Will I need a panel with a mppt controller attached 5. If I wanted to move the panel following the sun some distance from my van what cable should I attach to panel/controller
Im very new to this, so I hope I have explained my situation correctly and asked the right questions.
Any help will be appreciated
Hi Shakey,
Firstly, if you follow the grey Anderson plug back to the van you will find that it should lead directly back to the battery. Any portable panel will require a solar controller to be attached, preferably close to this point. What I have done is just put a short cable with Anderson plugs on the battery and solar terminals for easy connection.
You say you want to just add a bit more solar so I'm guessing that your batteries are big enough for you but you just want to top up with a bit more power quicker. So now to your questions.
1. This is a buyers minefield as what is good for some is not considered good enough for others. Plenty of users find that the cheaper brands provide what they want so it comes down to personal choice. Suitcase style panels may be too bulky and heavy for you, I do not know, so if they are then you could consider solar blankets but they have their limitations also. Some people will buy two of these as they know the output isn't great but they are lighter. It all comes down to personal choice so tell us your preference and we will see if we can help. If you go into places like BCF, SuperCheap and Anaconda go pick up a box with a panel in and it will give you an idea of weight you will be carrying in and out of you vehicle.
2. Size, again that depends on how much extra power you want, the weight and choice of panels.
3. No, as I stated above you will need a solar controller. Most that come with portable solar panels are PWM controllers or just cheap, not so good, MPPT controllers. For value for money buy a Renogy or EPever 20A solar controller or if you want to pay out extra then buy a Victron. I have an EPever and a Victron plus numerous other cheaper controllers. All will do LiFePo4 when you change over.
4. See above.
5. Buy 10m of this cable from Jaycar https://www.jaycar.com.au/25a-2-core-tinned-dc-power-cable-sold-per-metre/p/WH3087 or https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/narva-narva-automotive-cable-twin-sheath-10-metres-50-amp/532513.html#q=Narva%2B%2Bcable&lang=en_AU&start=4and make 1 x 5m lead, 1 x 4m lead and the pigtails for the solar controller. Anderson plugs can be bought at Jaycar or Supercheap or Bunnings.
Any question come back and ask.
Tim
-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 26th of September 2022 07:00:21 AM
TimTim said
07:02 AM Sep 26, 2022
Sry links not working again
-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 26th of September 2022 07:03:09 AM
Voltage drop on 10 metres (20 metres + & - ) of 10 amps is with 8 awg (8.366mm²) is 0.42 volts.
You really don't want any other loses in the wiring.
Also as always make sure the controller is near the batteries so the charging profile works properly.
TimTim said
08:50 AM Sep 26, 2022
I will have to do another test on my 8 AWG because I have never ever seen anything like that. I recall doing a test on my 12 AWG but That was insignificant also. I will have to get them out again and take another test. Oh for some sunshine
The Travelling Dillberries said
03:45 PM Sep 26, 2022
My actual voltage drop on 6mmsqd, 5 meter xtension lead in use, measured at Solar panel and voltage regulator was 0.2 volts.
That's why I suggested it for Shakey.
Whenarewethere said
04:25 PM Sep 26, 2022
No problems with suggesting X product.
So 0.2 voltage drop for your 5 metre lead. So that will be 0.4 voltage drop for 10 metres.
It is a good idea to work out long you need the extension lead. Better still have a couple of them & only plug extra leads in if needed. It is surprising just how far a tree can cast a shadow.
The Travelling Dillberries said
04:49 PM Sep 26, 2022
No, if you are measuring actual volts, why would you double it ?
The Travelling Dillberries said
05:00 PM Sep 26, 2022
In fact if the total vd is 0.2 VDC, then by your own preaching the vd would be 0.1 plus 0.1 for the example situation.
shakey55 said
05:56 PM Sep 26, 2022
The solar panels, batteries and compressor fridge were attached to van when I purchased it.
So, if I have this right, the brains trust are telling me that the solar panel can be plugged into grey Anderson plug, but the solar regulator (preferably a MPPT) needs to be close to the battery. You will see from the attached picture that the batteries (3 x 120 amp agm) are in the front boot area and the grey Anderson plug (as marked) is on the near side of the van.
There are two solar panels on the roof (I think only 100 watt).
I have a 165 litre Mishto compressor fridge; Specifications Type 165L Fridge Freezer Compressor ALPICOOL Refrigerant R134a 45g Rated Power 75W 240V consumption 0.17kWh/24hrs 12V consumption 80A/24H approx Max. ambient temp 38C Foam vesicant C5H10/C-pentane Temperature drop 30 degrees Power Input 12/24/240V
So is it going to easier to connect portable solar panel with good quality MPPT regulator direct to the battery bank.
I can't see where anyone has said that Shakey, and we have given you recommendations.
You shouldn't connect a solar panel directly to a battery. You need to chase where the Anderson is now connected, to the batteries or to the PL20. It may be the case that the previous owner has used a portable panel.
Replace the PL20 with a quality MPPT.
Cheers.
TimTim said
10:23 PM Sep 26, 2022
Hi Shakey,
Well you have a few alternatives but the common thing is that you will need to install your solar controller in the boot along side your battery.
You could just have a pigtail connection on your solar controller and run your cable to a portable panel leaving the boot open. Alternatively run a cable through the bottom of the boot to an Anderson fixed on the drawbar. There may even be a drainage hole for you to run the cable through.
I take it that your grey Anderson plug that connects to your tow vehicle is running through another system. Do you have a DC/Dc charger installed?
If the Anderson plug at the rear is connected directly to the batteries you can disconnect it there and put your solar controller in between. The issue is that you have a few meters of cable run that add to voltage loss and you are not actually getting any distance away from the van.
Beware of the portable solar panels on EBay. XTM from BCF are a reasonable quality and I did test one of their solar blankets that gave good output. The larger panels are quite heavy so you will have to consider the weight.
It has a PWM solar controller and you will have to consider whether that is suitable for you. An MPPT controller will get you slightly more power but at considerably more cost. No Idea what the XTM ones are like from BCF but as I previously said I have an EPever and a Victron.
I need to learn about this solar stuff. Getting very confused.
So can I buy a decent panel with a decent controller and just plug it somewhere.
TimTim, am I getting this correct. Make up Anderson plug connection, attach to battery and plug controller to that and length of good size cable from controller to panel
TheTravellingDillberries, Im doing my best to learn. As for just go and buy a new solar controller, well that may come when fund are available. At the moment I just want to get a portable solar set up to help with what Ive got.
-- Edited by shakey55 on Tuesday 27th of September 2022 07:17:50 AM
TimTim said
07:45 AM Sep 27, 2022
Ok if you have limited funds look at the panel from BCF and use the PWN controller that comes with it. It also comes with a 5 metre cable. That will work for you and then in the future you can consider whether to upgrade the solar controller.
Simply plug it into the grey Anderson plug at the rear.
You can then look at other options in the future.
Or yes make up an Anderson plug and connect directly to the battery. Then connect the solar controller and run a cable from there to your solar panels.
Tim
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 27th of September 2022 07:48:09 AM
TimTim said
07:52 AM Sep 27, 2022
Plenty of people here to help you Shakey. We all started out knowing nothing.
rgren2 said
08:16 AM Sep 27, 2022
The Anderson plug in my caravan charges the batteries via a voltage dependent relay, just plugging solar panels in may not work as the controller needs to have a look at your batteries first. I put in a new Anderson that goes directly to the batteries via a fuse.
Whenarewethere said
08:34 AM Sep 27, 2022
shakey55 wrote:
Im doing my best to learn.
At the moment I just want to get a portable solar set up to help with what Ive got.
I started about 4 years ago & knew nothing, still learning.
You can connect things up different ways, connect a few controllers but it needs to be done carefully. Unless you can measure what you have wired up you will have know idea whether you are improving or going backwards.
I have 2 controllers as I upgraded, but experimented with both. If not set up properly you can really make a meal of things & get very little solar input.
Use what you have & get your head around how it all works first. With measurements, rewiring & moving things you will probably improve your setup. Just chucking on new items blindly is of no use.
We were originally going to have solar fitted to our campervan but are now considering a portable system. Our batteries already charge while driving & this is as a back up if we decide to park for a day or 2.
Generally with work we only get a few days off at a time so we do a lot of driving and don't spend that long in each place, but sometimes we like to spend a couple of days in the 1 spot.
Can someone that knows more about solar than me (that is just about everyone) please tell me if this is value for money, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-12V-160W-FOLDING-SOLAR-PANEL-KIT-MONO-CARAVAN-BOAT-CAMPING-POWER-BATTERY-/281162804550?pt=AU_Solar&hash=item41769bed46 .
Thanks Heaps
You have a camper van, is it a Jayco?, what power are you using, or what appliances are you running that consumes the power.
I'm thinking maybe a second battery may be a better investment, less likely to get stolen.
Charged up at home before your trip.
- The solar Regulator should be mounted near the Battery Not on the Panel...
- the Cable size seems to be what I would call Fly-scat cabling.. thin and useless[will have a voltage drop..]
The cable out of the regulator seem to be a 4-6mm2 while the cable after the Mc4 connectors seem to be 2.5mm2... Not good..
The Said advertised Cost is actually the retail cost not a saving if you shop around.. $1.20 to $1.50 per watt...
It's your money....
Juergen
Iana - it is a Fiat Ducato camper that we are doing ourselves. It already has 2 x100ah batteries that charge while driving, all we are running is 12v compressor fridge, led lights, fan & radio.
Haven't had a problem with running out but generally we are on the road everyday so they get charged, the panels were if we decided to park up[ for a couple of days.
SnowT- thanks for that. Do you happen to know of any good portable panel kits or is it a case of installing permanent to get something that is worthwhile.
- They have the Solar Regulator Fixed near the Batteries and use a Water proof anderson plug to hook up to it.. They also use a 4 or 6mm2 cable to hook them up..
The issue is security.. Portable panels seem to make an interesting thing to steal, so they need to secured in such a way that will deter the opportunist thief.. If someone is determined to steal it they will work at it..
A portable panel will give you a better charge as long as you chase the sun.. A fixed Panel will at most give you 70% efficiency and in most case 50%..
Roof mounted Solar Panels can be used as a Tropical Roof to help keep the sun off the roof... I have a Tropical Roof of Panels..
Juergen
I would agree with these comments generally.
My experience with portable panels is this. I use 4x 80w panels. I had two which is enough for sunny weather but now have 4. Just standard 12v roof panels. Use them in pairs to get the 24v for my truck system. I had them hinged together like those but seperated them because they were too heavy together, for comfortable handling and lifting to put away. So feel the weight before buying.
It does pay to use generous size cables as the losses can be bigger than fixed panels as the wires are longer. I have the regulator in the battery control box and connect to it with a plug and socket that is accessed out under the truck. I do not use the original panel connectors as they are too hard to pull apart easily. I ran some twin core cable and a 4 into one box to connect them to the main cable.
For some security I also have a 4mm stainless steel boating cable with an eye formed at each end, swaged by the boating shop, so I can thread it through some holes in the panel frames and then lock it to the truck or a fence etc. It is 6m long and was not expensive. Stops the normal thieves.
You can buy 80w panels for around $110 each free freight if you look. or 100 w for a bit more. Buy a better MPPT regulator. Just my thoughts !!
Jaahn
-- Edited by Jaahn on Thursday 15th of January 2015 11:45:41 AM
Basically I'm going to echo everyone else.
I would not buy that kit. You'll get better charging performance, including higher battery voltage, with the controller wired close to the battery rather than at the panels. This is also more robust - I started out with a controller mounted on the panels and with use the terminals work loose and the wire ends break off, either of which can result in short circuits, not to mention failing to charge the battery - and more flexible as you can connect say an Anderson plug to the controller and then easily plug in any solar panel of suitable specification. Panels are typically sold with waterproof MC4 connectors on their cables, and MC4 double adapters (for dual panel setups) and MC4-to-Anderson cables are readily available.
Make sure you can physically handle the size and weight of whatever you purchase. 2x80W ain't tiny. The seller doesn't appear to have stated the weight in that listing.
Ranging from small device charging to large heavy duty backup power we would need to make use of the freely available solar power that can be easily obtained in the place where we might halt for a day or two. I have a portable solar panel kit bought form Getbunny which is fitted to our campervan. It charges through 3 stage charging cycle, protecting battery and extends the life of the battery.
I agree with what everbody has said so far in regards to the solar controller "needs to be near the battery". As far as price goes, you generally get what you pay for, cheaper kits usually mean cheaper components. IMHO Rich Solar panels are one of the best brands coming out of China, as they are made to specs by Rich Rolar Australia. The ad say from Germany, maybe some of the parts are??? who knows. The write up doesn't really give much info about the controller, but, by the pictures it looks to me like a basic one.
So I'd suggest if you were to got with this kit to get a new MPPT controller, one with an LCD panel that gives you some useful basic information and as the others have said mount it near the batteries. Then at a glance you can see state of the battery bank, charge rate etc... I have Rich Solar panels myself and have helped a few people set them up, everybody including myself are very happy with them.
Personally, I'm lazy, I have mine permanently mounted to save the hassle of getting them out when needed, my luck I'd sleep in and loose half the day's sunlight.
I have a 2011 New Age Big Red 19. There are two panels on the roof (unsure of size) running through a Plasmatronics PL20 solar controller (yes ancient but still doing its job until I one day upgrade to lithium.
I want to buy a portable solar panel to bolster my solar input when off-grid. I have a grey Anderson plug on the side of the van, no blue plug from what I can see.
1. What are good brand portable panels
2. What size should I get
3. Can I plug direct into grey Anderson plug
4. Will I need a panel with a mppt controller attached
5. If I wanted to move the panel following the sun some distance from my van what cable should I attach to panel/controller
Im very new to this, so I hope I have explained my situation correctly and asked the right questions.
Any help will be appreciated
I think you are approaching this from the wrong way.
What are your loads. How many AH do you have. What is the solar input, at least measure the surface area without falling off a ladder, to get some idea.
On our last 3 month trip we didn't use the solar panels once. The DC-DC charger was ideal as we only stayed put for a maximum of 4 days.
The length of cable is determined by the cross sectional area & the total distance of both + & - so if you want to reach the sun at 12 metres, it is 24 metres. Not to forget the wiring in the van. You can always use your jumper leads for extra reach.
There is nothing wrong with lead acid batteries unless you have payload issues, but quite frankly throw some rubbish out first.
Hi Shakey, to answer your questions:
Have a look at the Ridge Ryder Solar Panels at supercheap, they will do the job. You'll have to decide if you want a rigid or flexible panel, around 150--160watt will do. They also have made up extension leads, 6mmsquared is ample for a 5metre lead.
The grey Anderson plug may be a 12volt supply or it may be an input to your solar regulator. Get it checked out. You need it to be an Input to the Pl20. I installed an Anderson on the drawbar (using 16mm squared cable), found it was ideal, just move the panel around following the sun.
I would upgrade the PL20 to an MPPT, ensuring you locate it adjacent the battery/s. Some of their (Supercheap) panels come with an included MPPT regulator.
Note: it is worthwhile joining the Supercheap club (if your not a member) save heaps.
Cheers
Chris.
Hi Shakey,
Firstly, if you follow the grey Anderson plug back to the van you will find that it should lead directly back to the battery. Any portable panel will require a solar controller to be attached, preferably close to this point. What I have done is just put a short cable with Anderson plugs on the battery and solar terminals for easy connection.
You say you want to just add a bit more solar so I'm guessing that your batteries are big enough for you but you just want to top up with a bit more power quicker. So now to your questions.
1. This is a buyers minefield as what is good for some is not considered good enough for others. Plenty of users find that the cheaper brands provide what they want so it comes down to personal choice. Suitcase style panels may be too bulky and heavy for you, I do not know, so if they are then you could consider solar blankets but they have their limitations also. Some people will buy two of these as they know the output isn't great but they are lighter. It all comes down to personal choice so tell us your preference and we will see if we can help. If you go into places like BCF, SuperCheap and Anaconda go pick up a box with a panel in and it will give you an idea of weight you will be carrying in and out of you vehicle.
2. Size, again that depends on how much extra power you want, the weight and choice of panels.
3. No, as I stated above you will need a solar controller. Most that come with portable solar panels are PWM controllers or just cheap, not so good, MPPT controllers. For value for money buy a Renogy or EPever 20A solar controller or if you want to pay out extra then buy a Victron. I have an EPever and a Victron plus numerous other cheaper controllers. All will do LiFePo4 when you change over.
4. See above.
5. Buy 10m of this cable from Jaycar https://www.jaycar.com.au/25a-2-core-tinned-dc-power-cable-sold-per-metre/p/WH3087 or https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/narva-narva-automotive-cable-twin-sheath-10-metres-50-amp/532513.html#q=Narva%2B%2Bcable&lang=en_AU&start=4and make 1 x 5m lead, 1 x 4m lead and the pigtails for the solar controller. Anderson plugs can be bought at Jaycar or Supercheap or Bunnings.
Any question come back and ask.
Tim
-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 26th of September 2022 07:00:21 AM
Sry links not working again
-- Edited by TimTim on Monday 26th of September 2022 07:03:09 AM
https://www.jaycar.com.au/25a-2-core-tinned-dc-power-cable-sold-per-metre/p/WH3087
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/narva-narva-automotive-cable-twin-sheath-10-metres-50-amp/532513.html#q=Narva%2B%2Bcable&lang=en_AU&start=4
Voltage drop on 10 metres (20 metres + & - ) of 10 amps is with 8 awg (8.366mm²) is 0.42 volts.
You really don't want any other loses in the wiring.
Also as always make sure the controller is near the batteries so the charging profile works properly.
I will have to do another test on my 8 AWG because I have never ever seen anything like that. I recall doing a test on my 12 AWG but That was insignificant also. I will have to get them out again and take another test. Oh for some sunshine
My actual voltage drop on 6mmsqd, 5 meter xtension lead in use, measured at Solar panel and voltage regulator was 0.2 volts.
That's why I suggested it for Shakey.
No problems with suggesting X product.
So 0.2 voltage drop for your 5 metre lead. So that will be 0.4 voltage drop for 10 metres.
It is a good idea to work out long you need the extension lead. Better still have a couple of them & only plug extra leads in if needed. It is surprising just how far a tree can cast a shadow.
No, if you are measuring actual volts, why would you double it ?
In fact if the total vd is 0.2 VDC, then by your own preaching the vd would be 0.1 plus 0.1 for the example situation.
The solar panels, batteries and compressor fridge were attached to van when I purchased it.
So, if I have this right, the brains trust are telling me that the solar panel can be plugged into grey Anderson plug, but the solar regulator (preferably a MPPT) needs to be close to the battery. You will see from the attached picture that the batteries (3 x 120 amp agm) are in the front boot area and the grey Anderson plug (as marked) is on the near side of the van.
There are two solar panels on the roof (I think only 100 watt).
I have a 165 litre Mishto compressor fridge;
Specifications
Type 165L Fridge Freezer
Compressor ALPICOOL
Refrigerant R134a 45g
Rated Power 75W
240V consumption 0.17kWh/24hrs
12V consumption 80A/24H approx
Max. ambient temp 38C
Foam vesicant C5H10/C-pentane
Temperature drop 30 degrees
Power Input 12/24/240V
So is it going to easier to connect portable solar panel with good quality MPPT regulator direct to the battery bank.
Still looking for brand/type recommendations
I can't see where anyone has said that Shakey, and we have given you recommendations.
You shouldn't connect a solar panel directly to a battery. You need to chase where the Anderson is now connected, to the batteries or to the PL20. It may be the case that the previous owner has used a portable panel.
Replace the PL20 with a quality MPPT.
Cheers.
Hi Shakey,
Well you have a few alternatives but the common thing is that you will need to install your solar controller in the boot along side your battery.
You could just have a pigtail connection on your solar controller and run your cable to a portable panel leaving the boot open. Alternatively run a cable through the bottom of the boot to an Anderson fixed on the drawbar. There may even be a drainage hole for you to run the cable through.
I take it that your grey Anderson plug that connects to your tow vehicle is running through another system. Do you have a DC/Dc charger installed?
If the Anderson plug at the rear is connected directly to the batteries you can disconnect it there and put your solar controller in between. The issue is that you have a few meters of cable run that add to voltage loss and you are not actually getting any distance away from the van.
Beware of the portable solar panels on EBay. XTM from BCF are a reasonable quality and I did test one of their solar blankets that gave good output. The larger panels are quite heavy so you will have to consider the weight.
https://www.bcf.com.au/search?q=Solar%20Panel
It has a PWM solar controller and you will have to consider whether that is suitable for you. An MPPT controller will get you slightly more power but at considerably more cost. No Idea what the XTM ones are like from BCF but as I previously said I have an EPever and a Victron.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/123538287398?hash=item1cc374ab26:g:hv4AAOSwztVcDzuG&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAwJFRYfMdRHWWCth%2FXeizGBYrvzHBwAZCY4c4J2fcC1VBkiSCJZl0b1lD5OaqVRMsSeYXq4i7%2B8UVhbCZAOjAMB9Ug%2BQdsPAhdOZ9rqDtaohPNEDUfZtgvpzTLAwm1Ir0lUekQq10utgz%2Bvnrrxs51mQk7JXqlpKXe%2FuOQUqNYNTKsuo1zYwpCVDj%2FUtZvMIApOKwQUVbD8y3gv8mROK%2FFcz45pYn6emMUoZwiuEzgsb%2Fma0Vuvt5VdMSsP7IVcHqoA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABlBMUIjDq5vvYA
Jaycar sell them at considerably more cost and rebranded as Powertech.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/313588529041?hash=item4903553791:g:PhEAAOSwkLJhaYme&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoBMXA%2BPlbJgcYTW1BUS8jgkEizfzlIa8ovZX53NfQ6PrY%2Bzwj93iOQo6btVxwKCUFbvy0Rj5qTaYku10rp6FW5f1xRJlDGcb5eUy4APEepmt109ck0C7SbI4AvFSx1juRdVvHZ9B8W6ZzE4U7qEu4rI%2Bw8LxIiuThWtZzbMqudHiRforYfXtiRc6GfTaNh%2FWZrPyiSMEJJ8nfmK48UYLEVY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4jDq5vvYA
Good luck.
I need to learn about this solar stuff. Getting very confused.
So can I buy a decent panel with a decent controller and just plug it somewhere.
TimTim, am I getting this correct. Make up Anderson plug connection, attach to battery and plug controller to that and length of good size cable from controller to panel
TheTravellingDillberries, Im doing my best to learn. As for just go and buy a new solar controller, well that may come when fund are available. At the moment I just want to get a portable solar set up to help with what Ive got.
-- Edited by shakey55 on Tuesday 27th of September 2022 07:17:50 AM
Ok if you have limited funds look at the panel from BCF and use the PWN controller that comes with it. It also comes with a 5 metre cable. That will work for you and then in the future you can consider whether to upgrade the solar controller.
Simply plug it into the grey Anderson plug at the rear.
You can then look at other options in the future.
Or yes make up an Anderson plug and connect directly to the battery. Then connect the solar controller and run a cable from there to your solar panels.
Tim
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 27th of September 2022 07:48:09 AM
I started about 4 years ago & knew nothing, still learning.
You can connect things up different ways, connect a few controllers but it needs to be done carefully. Unless you can measure what you have wired up you will have know idea whether you are improving or going backwards.
I have 2 controllers as I upgraded, but experimented with both. If not set up properly you can really make a meal of things & get very little solar input.
Use what you have & get your head around how it all works first. With measurements, rewiring & moving things you will probably improve your setup. Just chucking on new items blindly is of no use.