I have an RV/Marine 95 Amp sealed battery given to me by a friend (a member of this forum) and I would like to set it up in my vehicle as an auxiliary battery for running my portable 31 litre fridge/freezer when not travelling (eg; free camp etc).
Also wired up so it charges either off the main cranking battery alternator when driving or adding a Ctech charger to the system.
The portable fridge/freezer is the only item it would need to run. I have been looking at some different items including Dual Battery Kits but am confused as to what to get. I would not be installing this myself. The portable/fridge freezer would be in the rear of the vehicle.
The fridge has it's own transformer and socket/lead for charging direct on 240V when available.
I have attached a couple of pic's of some of the items I have been looking at in Supercheap Auto's. Could someone clarify for me what I will actually need especially for a 95Amp battery to do this work please.
Hi Vic, I will be watching the replies to this with interest. I can see from your previous posts you are running the same fridge 30 litre that I am. I currently am surviving on the 60ah Allrounder battery. I am interested in how to set up an auxiliary battery too. I have purchased an Ark Powerpack battery box but haven't figured out where I want to locate it yet. And more to the point how to rig it to the alternator for charging. Anyway this is the box, don't know if this replaces some of the things you posted as it has smart charger built in.
Just another thought, question: My auto electrician quoted nearly $900 to put in dual battery set up. He only charged me $140 to put in an always on 12v outlet with 30amp fuse and thicker wire to back of ute. So where does $800 come from to run a few wires to a battery installed in back of ute. Not trying to crash in on your topic here Vic but think its related to what you are asking. What components and what cost? Seems a high price quoted for setting up a system.
Vic41 said
11:44 PM Mar 1, 2014
baute wrote:
Hi Vic, I will be watching the replies to this with interest. I can see from your previous posts you are running the same fridge 30 litre that I am. I currently am surviving on the 60ah Allrounder battery. I am interested in how to set up an auxiliary battery too. I have purchased an Ark Powerpack battery box but haven't figured out where I want to locate it yet. And more to the point how to rig it to the alternator for charging. Anyway this is the box, don't know if this replaces some of the things you posted as it has smart charger built in.
Sheesh, that is a lot of money, did that $900 include the battery and any components or cover everything? Here are a couple of other items I saw in the shop (Supercheap), apparently I need a 12V socket on the battery case as well, not sure about the other things I don't think I need them but have put the pic's here anyway. (your link made clickable).
-- Edited by Vic41 on Saturday 1st of March 2014 11:48:15 PM
Well from memory the auto electrician quote was everything, box, battery, wire, isolator.
The 12v socket on the arkpak I just read only has a 10amp fuse which seems a bit small, my car has 30amp fuses in all 12v outlets. I don't really know much more than you. I know my box cost $120 on special, has a smart charger, apparently 1.5amp which is considered slow or low.
So by my calculations: A box with smart charger and 12v socket: $120
Isolator: from jaycar about $120
Battery 110ah:?????????????? $200 to whatever you want to pay!
wire and clamps; minimal
volt meter; $20 jaycar
So by my calculations the labor charge was anywhere between $400 -$500 unless I'm missing something.
Cruising Cruze said
01:07 AM Mar 2, 2014
Hi Baute
the $400 also include the FF charges
Family Factor $100 for the wife
$100 for each kid x2
So he charges only $100 dollar for labour
Cheers John
-- Edited by Cruising Cruze on Sunday 2nd of March 2014 01:09:11 AM
Vic41 said
09:59 AM Mar 2, 2014
Thanks for the info Baute, I can't do much with mine until I take the seats out but will keep you posted on what happens. A friend has offered to help me with the fitting if I buy the right components, a bit beyond my capacity...
CC, someone in our neighbourhood paid a "tradesman" upfront to build a patio for him, the "tradie" said he needed the money up front to buy the materials. His job has not been done and he has since found out he is a gambler so I don't like his chances of getting his job done or money. Yes he had a wife and kids too but in his case it was the gee gees I think...
native pepper said
10:24 AM Mar 2, 2014
Vic41 wrote:
baute wrote:
Hi Vic, I will be watching the replies to this with interest. I can see from your previous posts you are running the same fridge 30 litre that I am. I currently am surviving on the 60ah Allrounder battery. I am interested in how to set up an auxiliary battery too. I have purchased an Ark Powerpack battery box but haven't figured out where I want to locate it yet. And more to the point how to rig it to the alternator for charging. Anyway this is the box, don't know if this replaces some of the things you posted as it has smart charger built in.
Sheesh, that is a lot of money, did that $900 include the battery and any components or cover everything? Here are a couple of other items I saw in the shop (Supercheap), apparently I need a 12V socket on the battery case as well, not sure about the other things I don't think I need them but have put the pic's here anyway. (your link made clickable).
-- Edited by Vic41 on Saturday 1st of March 2014 11:48:15 PM
Once you've found somewhere to put your second battery, all you need is a battery isolator solenoid. They are cheap, very reliable and come with full wiring instructions. Anyone can fit one in a few minutes and no need to spend a fortune on a supposed brand one, We used to use redarc, but they are so expensive and these ones are used in most of the fishing boats down here, because of their reliability and sturdiness.
I'd go with the Redarc over a simple solenoid as per the link above, simply because the Redarc is a "smart" isolator that will only connect the Auxilliary battery once the Start battery has reached a certain voltage (13.2VDC), and disconnects the Aux battery when the Start battery voltage drops down to a predertimed level (12.7VDC).
This is usefull if you happen to have a flat AUX battery and a low Start battery. If you use the simple solenoid you'll suck charge from your Start battery to the AUX battery as soon as your ignition is turned on (if that's what you're using to energise the solenoid), which is likely to prevent you from starting your vehicle.
The Redarc SBI12 also has the ability to override the isolator and connect both batteries in parallel manually, via an override switch, if you have a flat Start battery, but your AUX battery is charged, to enable you to jump start from the AUX battery.
There are other brands of smart isolators around also, but the Redarc is the only one I have fitted (to countless mining support vehicles) that has the manual override function. Available from Ebay for under $100.00
I have no afilliation with Redarc, other than having used their products at work, fitting out mine service vehicles.
Vic41 said
11:20 AM Mar 2, 2014
Thanks for the info Native Pepper and Troopy. I am thinking I may fit a flush double 12V socket to my battery case so as well as the fridge I can run a 12V fan as well, not sure what the draw is on them but I imagine it shouldn't be much....
freefish1 said
01:34 PM Mar 2, 2014
Hi, From what I can see all these would be suitable for setting up a dual battery system. Dead easy to connect. Should charge your battery OK. Doesn't matter then what you connect you should not flatten your starter battery no matter what.
To connect your fridge get whoever is wiring it up to make up a short lead with one end connected to the battery with a fuse (+ wire) & an Anderson plug the other. Replace your ciggy plug with an Anderson plug. Cigarette plugs are in my opinion the worst thing possible for running a fridge for any length of time. They vibrate loose, make poor connection & overheat & melt. Merritt plugs are a little better but not much. Anderson plugs are cheap & effective.
You can use a genuine Engel socket. Fridge plug screws in. Comes complete fused & ready to connect to battery. Not cheap $70 I think. Your Engel plug should screw in two with a tab to align correctly & screw together.
Hope this helps Bill
Vic41 said
01:52 PM Mar 2, 2014
Thanks Bill, mine is an Evakool Travelmate. It has a transformer and plug for 240V to 12V charging, and also the ciggy type plug for 12 running only.
SnowT said
03:08 PM Mar 2, 2014
Hiya Vic..
Look No matter what they charge..
You need to Look at the length of the cable run's you have...
Now if it was me I would Double up the cable length. run a Neutral[sorry -ve] as well as a Positive..
Make the Cable over size so it is not affected by Voltage drop in the cable..
for example..
Take a Falcon Panel Van.. From Front to Back it's about 6m long.. Add an extra 2m to the Length..
so make the Run 8m..
- Is the secondary battery ever going to be used as an emergency start battery..? Say yes..
- For a 12v system @140A max Draw they recommend 70mm2 cable..
When Starting the Drew is only for a second or 2..
I know I'm going to be jumped on here.. But this is how I would do it..
The Battery Path..
Battery >> 200A fuse >> Battery Isolator system[Switch system ] >> Cable >> Isolation Switch/Point[+ve lead only] >> Second Battery
The Isolation Switch/point at the Battery is to make sure that you can Isolate the second Battery Close to the Battery in the case that you need to work on it.. Better to Isolate here than to have a LIVE cable Loose..
The Isolation point could be a short Piece of busbar that you disconnect from.. No Live end Flapping around..
Hey that is me..
Psst if you need to get Cable for the Project Go "" A Welding supply shop "" and get the cable from there.. By far the cheapest supplier of cable I have come across..
Juergen
baute said
03:38 PM Mar 2, 2014
Well Vic,
It appears we are on the right track. I do however have some other questions here regarding the advice given.
I have heard it said often and again here to install Anderson plugs to run fridge. My question is: what is causing the fridge plug to overheat and melt?
I ask this because I have run my 30 litre fridge from the 12v plug through the car 12v socket and via the 240v transformer and was paranoid about this. So I constantly checked it and found it did not even get warm. My fridge has been running using the 12v plug and transformer for 5 weeks now without any heating up issues. I have run it with the 12v in the car socket for 5 weeks with no heating up issues.
This is not to say it wont heat up in the future but I would like to know the cause.
I am hesitant to change to an Anderson plug for the following reasons: if I want to take the fridge in someone else's car without an Anderson plug/socket, I can't.
I also have a portable Ark pack that the fridge can run off from the 12v outlet.
So if I change to an Anderson plug the fridge is then only useful in the vehicle with an Anderson "outlet".
I did not have any issues with the plug working loose even travelling over gravel roads. This maybe to do with the positioning of the 12v socket. It is vertical rather than horizontal so rather than slip out it would have to work its way upward and out. I have a hella type socket and the plug on the fridge looks like a Merrit plug.
Thanks for all the advice, I am learning heaps. Thanks Vic for posting this topic.
Vic41 said
06:50 PM Mar 2, 2014
Thanks for the detailed info and advice Juergen it will come in handy.
Also yours baute and your experience, never thought of the swapping vehicle or horizontal mount for sockets bit.
I am thinking now for my 95 amp aux battery a Projecta 125 amp dual battery kit and like Juergen said if mounted at the rear of my vehicle (Hyundai Imax Van with seats removed) would buy the extra cable, also a double plug set into the top of the battery case, one for the 30l Eva Kool Traveller fridge and the other possibly for a 12V fan when needed.
See pic of kit attached (the 125amp one). The 75amp one is on special at $129 at Supercheap, don't know if they have stock or the price of the 125amp one, will have to check. Sorry about the size of the pic's, I did reduce them but not enough.
If you have a Connection point get hot, it is because the connection point either
1 - Is not making a Proper connection..
2 - Has some corrosion at that point.. The corrosion causes a Resistance at the point, and as they say P[W] = [IxI]/R R= Resistance.. so any resistance at that point will cause the connection to radiate P[Watt's]
So All connections need to be such that there is No Resistance at all..
Another factor if their is a change of cable size that will cause an issue.. Most 12/240v Fridge's do not have the correct size cables for low voltage..
Juergen
brian said
07:38 PM Mar 2, 2014
SnowT wrote:
If you have a Connection point get hot, it is because the connection point either
1 - Is not making a Proper connection.. 2 - Has some corrosion at that point.. The corrosion causes a Resistance at the point, and as they say P[W] = [IxI]/R R= Resistance.. so any resistance at that point will cause the connection to radiate P[Watt's]
So All connections need to be such that there is No Resistance at all..
Another factor if their is a change of cable size that will cause an issue.. Most 12/240v Fridge's do not have the correct size cables for low voltage..
Juergen
I think that you meant P = I˛ x R rather than P = I˛ / R
KFT said
07:44 PM Mar 2, 2014
The beauty of Anderson plugs is they work both ways IE they all (50A I am talking about) plug in to each other.
SO if you have an Anderson plug installed for your fridge and you have a lead with one on from the fridge you only need to have another Anderson plug and lead with the correct plug for a 12v outlet. Plug the two Anderson plugs together and away you go.
simples
frank
Bryan said
10:41 PM Mar 2, 2014
Troopy, I have the same set up in my Avan Applause. The bouse battery is connected dc to dc with the electrobloc. The fridge is 12v/240v so it draws very little power unlike a 3 way fridge on 12v.
My solar run independently and is connected via a c-tek dc to dc (D250S). Don't ask me why but that's how I asked the person who fitted it to do it. I think at that stage I wanted another dc to dc on board as I knew zilch about the Elektrobloc. I've since learnt that it's a good unit
Vic41 said
10:51 PM Mar 2, 2014
KFT wrote:
The beauty of Anderson plugs is they work both ways IE they all (50A I am talking about) plug in to each other.
SO if you have an Anderson plug installed for your fridge and you have a lead with one on from the fridge you only need to have another Anderson plug and lead with the correct plug for a 12v outlet. Plug the two Anderson plugs together and away you go.
simples
frank
Just so I understand that Frank, for the fridge you have one Andersen socket on the battery case with a lead that your fridge can plug into for 12V. And if you want to run two items plugged into your Aux battery (eg; 12V fridge and 12v fan) at the same time you would need a double Andersen Socket at the battery end and both the fridge and 12V fan connection to these would have an Andersen plug on the leads to plug into those? I am not a techo so need to have things spelled out in case I misunderstand them.
03_troopy said
07:35 PM Mar 3, 2014
Bryan wrote:
Troopy, I have the same set up in my Avan Applause. The bouse battery is connected dc to dc with the electrobloc. The fridge is 12v/240v so it draws very little power unlike a 3 way fridge on 12v.
My solar run independently and is connected via a c-tek dc to dc (D250S). Don't ask me why but that's how I asked the person who fitted it to do it. I think at that stage I wanted another dc to dc on board as I knew zilch about the Elektrobloc. I've since learnt that it's a good unit
Hi Bryan. My Avan Ray wasn't even using the DC-DC function to charge the battery, the Electrobloc was only used in the 240VAC to 12VDC mode to charge the battery. I changed that but haven't bothered with solar on the Avan as yet. To be honest, I prefer to use the camper trailer, to which I fitted a Redarc BCDC1225 with DC from ALT and solar input. I don't even bother with 240VAC charging on it because I use it more for scrub camping. The Avan really doesn't inspire me that much, but I had to buy it more for "Her Indoors" so she could have a bit more comfort...
Wouldn't you have been better off just getting a decent solar reg/controller and feeding that into the Electrobloc? would have been cheaper, and you already had 240VAC charging with the BlueBloc.
03_troopy said
07:43 PM Mar 3, 2014
That's correct Vic41, or you could have an Anderson plug (or two) for the fridge, and a ciggy socket or Merrit Socket as well, to plug the fan in, depending what the fan has on the end of it's lead.
Yeah P.G. 7 used to p*ss off the other tech trades too when they were only on 6.. hehehe.... Blackhanders, Elec and Inst were all 6, RadTechs were 7..
Vic41 said
09:17 PM Mar 3, 2014
Thanks Troopy, I was only a lowly Gp 4, so wasn't allowed to use big words, LOL
Happyjack said
12:52 PM Mar 16, 2014
I did have a TJM dual battery kit but changed it for a CTEK D250S. mainly because most dual battery systems seem to feed the std alternator voltage through to the dual battery. My understanding is that while the alternator starts of at a a high voltage it quickly drops down as it is only designed to top up the start battery, so the dual (house) battery might need nearer say 14 v to charge up it may only be getting less than 13. The D250S boosts the voltage to the dual battery to the highest level required. This is a similar problem on boats where are lot of the alternators are actually automotive ones. The proper marine alternators charge at the higher correct rate. No doubt some autoelectricioan will either correct me or agree
Vic41 said
02:04 PM Mar 16, 2014
Thanks Happy Jack, I ended up having this Redarc system installed with a 95amp battery.
I only need mine for a 30l fridge/freezer and a small personal fan, but the auto electrician told me that for my needs and battery I wouldn't need a CTech, I did ask about it.
Pity you have had this done Vic as I am still in wellard and I could have sorted it out for even with one eye. good to see it sorted. The redarc is a good system and my choice of dual bat control system
cheers
blaze
Vic41 said
09:47 PM Mar 16, 2014
Thanks blaze, I don't want to embarrass a GN members here unless he gives me the green light, but he kindly gave me 95 amp deep cycle battery and offered to install a dual battery system for me, but he is up to his armpits with work and his own projects so I declined as I didn't want to impose on his time, although he would have willingly done it.
I thank you too for your kind offer (eye and all) I just hope your recovery goes well.
Thanks for the heads up on the Redarc too, funny in the link they look so big, but when they are actually installed they are tiny in comparison, a bit like the Macca's ads, LOL !
03_troopy said
06:55 PM Mar 17, 2014
Good to see the auto sparky used an existing threaded hole to mount the isolator instead of bashing in a couple of tech screws like a lot do these days. We install heaps of these, but in the 24V version, in Mine Service Trucks and have never had a complaint yet.
Vic41 said
11:51 PM Mar 17, 2014
03_troopy wrote:
Good to see the auto sparky used an existing threaded hole to mount the isolator instead of bashing in a couple of tech screws like a lot do these days. We install heaps of these, but in the 24V version, in Mine Service Trucks and have never had a complaint yet.
Thanks for the feedback troopy, it was fitted by an auto electronics mob called Deering Autronics in Balcatta WA, they have a few stores in WA. As for me, I know zip about techo stuff, however decided to use this company due to being happy with their work in the past.
They also give either RAC or Seniors Discount on labour, and are RAC recommended.
patrol03 said
12:45 PM Mar 19, 2014
03Troopy has given excellent advice.The Redarc smart isolator with the override hooked into the circuit is certainly the way to go.I wired my fridge with 6mm twin auto wire back to the deep cycle battery.I also cut off the cigarette lighter end from the fridge wire and replaced it with a two pin polarised low voltage plug. Likewise I have fitted the 2 pin polarised low voltage base in the back of the vehicle. The plug does not shake loose and does not exhibit any heat when removed. The voltage drop at the user end is almost negligible. I purchased the red arc for under $100. Used 6 B&S cable for main battery to isolator and then on to deep cycle battery. All up cable and component cost including plugs about $38. Hope this helps .Cheers Ian
I have an RV/Marine 95 Amp sealed battery given to me by a friend (a member of this forum) and I would like to set it up in my vehicle as an auxiliary battery for running my portable 31 litre fridge/freezer when not travelling (eg; free camp etc).
Also wired up so it charges either off the main cranking battery alternator when driving or adding a Ctech charger to the system.
The portable fridge/freezer is the only item it would need to run. I have been looking at some different items including Dual Battery Kits but am confused as to what to get. I would not be installing this myself. The portable/fridge freezer would be in the rear of the vehicle.
The fridge has it's own transformer and socket/lead for charging direct on 240V when available.
I have attached a couple of pic's of some of the items I have been looking at in Supercheap Auto's. Could someone clarify for me what I will actually need especially for a 95Amp battery to do this work please.
Hi Vic, I will be watching the replies to this with interest. I can see from your previous posts you are running the same fridge 30 litre that I am. I currently am surviving on the 60ah Allrounder battery. I am interested in how to set up an auxiliary battery too. I have purchased an Ark Powerpack battery box but haven't figured out where I want to locate it yet. And more to the point how to rig it to the alternator for charging. Anyway this is the box, don't know if this replaces some of the things you posted as it has smart charger built in.
http://www.bcf.com.au/online-store/products/Ark-Powerpack-Battery-Box-Smart-Charger.aspx?pid=165815#Cross
Just another thought, question: My auto electrician quoted nearly $900 to put in dual battery set up. He only charged me $140 to put in an always on 12v outlet with 30amp fuse and thicker wire to back of ute. So where does $800 come from to run a few wires to a battery installed in back of ute. Not trying to crash in on your topic here Vic but think its related to what you are asking. What components and what cost? Seems a high price quoted for setting up a system.
Sheesh, that is a lot of money, did that $900 include the battery and any components or cover everything? Here are a couple of other items I saw in the shop (Supercheap), apparently I need a 12V socket on the battery case as well, not sure about the other things I don't think I need them but have put the pic's here anyway. (your link made clickable).
-- Edited by Vic41 on Saturday 1st of March 2014 11:48:15 PM
Well from memory the auto electrician quote was everything, box, battery, wire, isolator.
The 12v socket on the arkpak I just read only has a 10amp fuse which seems a bit small, my car has 30amp fuses in all 12v outlets. I don't really know much more than you. I know my box cost $120 on special, has a smart charger, apparently 1.5amp which is considered slow or low.
So by my calculations: A box with smart charger and 12v socket: $120
Isolator: from jaycar about $120
Battery 110ah:?????????????? $200 to whatever you want to pay!
wire and clamps; minimal
volt meter; $20 jaycar
So by my calculations the labor charge was anywhere between $400 -$500 unless I'm missing something.
Hi Baute
the $400 also include the FF charges
Family Factor $100 for the wife
$100 for each kid x2
So he charges only $100 dollar for labour
Cheers John
-- Edited by Cruising Cruze on Sunday 2nd of March 2014 01:09:11 AM
Thanks for the info Baute, I can't do much with mine until I take the seats out but will keep you posted on what happens. A friend has offered to help me with the fitting if I buy the right components, a bit beyond my capacity...
CC, someone in our neighbourhood paid a "tradesman" upfront to build a patio for him, the "tradie" said he needed the money up front to buy the materials. His job has not been done and he has since found out he is a gambler so I don't like his chances of getting his job done or money. Yes he had a wife and kids too but in his case it was the gee gees I think...
Once you've found somewhere to put your second battery, all you need is a battery isolator solenoid. They are cheap, very reliable and come with full wiring instructions. Anyone can fit one in a few minutes and no need to spend a fortune on a supposed brand one, We used to use redarc, but they are so expensive and these ones are used in most of the fishing boats down here, because of their reliability and sturdiness.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390784955345
This is usefull if you happen to have a flat AUX battery and a low Start battery. If you use the simple solenoid you'll suck charge from your Start battery to the AUX battery as soon as your ignition is turned on (if that's what you're using to energise the solenoid), which is likely to prevent you from starting your vehicle.
The Redarc SBI12 also has the ability to override the isolator and connect both batteries in parallel manually, via an override switch, if you have a flat Start battery, but your AUX battery is charged, to enable you to jump start from the AUX battery.
There are other brands of smart isolators around also, but the Redarc is the only one I have fitted (to countless mining support vehicles) that has the manual override function. Available from Ebay for under $100.00
I have no afilliation with Redarc, other than having used their products at work, fitting out mine service vehicles.
Thanks for the info Native Pepper and Troopy. I am thinking I may fit a flush double 12V socket to my battery case so as well as the fridge I can run a 12V fan as well, not sure what the draw is on them but I imagine it shouldn't be much....
Hi, From what I can see all these would be suitable for setting up a dual battery system. Dead easy to connect. Should charge your battery OK. Doesn't matter then what you connect you should not flatten your starter battery no matter what.
To connect your fridge get whoever is wiring it up to make up a short lead with one end connected to the battery with a fuse (+ wire) & an Anderson plug the other. Replace your ciggy plug with an Anderson plug. Cigarette plugs are in my opinion the worst thing possible for running a fridge for any length of time. They vibrate loose, make poor connection & overheat & melt. Merritt plugs are a little better but not much. Anderson plugs are cheap & effective.
You can use a genuine Engel socket. Fridge plug screws in. Comes complete fused & ready to connect to battery. Not cheap $70 I think. Your Engel plug should screw in two with a tab to align correctly & screw together.
Hope this helps Bill
Thanks Bill, mine is an Evakool Travelmate. It has a transformer and plug for 240V to 12V charging, and also the ciggy type plug for 12 running only.
Look No matter what they charge..
You need to Look at the length of the cable run's you have...
Now if it was me I would Double up the cable length. run a Neutral[sorry -ve] as well as a Positive..
Make the Cable over size so it is not affected by Voltage drop in the cable..
for example..
Take a Falcon Panel Van.. From Front to Back it's about 6m long.. Add an extra 2m to the Length..
so make the Run 8m..
- Is the secondary battery ever going to be used as an emergency start battery..? Say yes..
- For a 12v system @140A max Draw they recommend 70mm2 cable..
When Starting the Drew is only for a second or 2..
I know I'm going to be jumped on here.. But this is how I would do it..
The Battery Path..
Battery >> 200A fuse >> Battery Isolator system[Switch system ] >> Cable >> Isolation Switch/Point[+ve lead only] >> Second Battery
The Isolation Switch/point at the Battery is to make sure that you can Isolate the second Battery Close to the Battery in the case that you need to work on it.. Better to Isolate here than to have a LIVE cable Loose..
The Isolation point could be a short Piece of busbar that you disconnect from.. No Live end Flapping around..
Hey that is me..
Psst if you need to get Cable for the Project Go "" A Welding supply shop "" and get the cable from there.. By far the cheapest supplier of cable I have come across..
Juergen
Well Vic,
It appears we are on the right track. I do however have some other questions here regarding the advice given.
I have heard it said often and again here to install Anderson plugs to run fridge. My question is: what is causing the fridge plug to overheat and melt?
I ask this because I have run my 30 litre fridge from the 12v plug through the car 12v socket and via the 240v transformer and was paranoid about this. So I constantly checked it and found it did not even get warm. My fridge has been running using the 12v plug and transformer for 5 weeks now without any heating up issues. I have run it with the 12v in the car socket for 5 weeks with no heating up issues.
This is not to say it wont heat up in the future but I would like to know the cause.
I am hesitant to change to an Anderson plug for the following reasons: if I want to take the fridge in someone else's car without an Anderson plug/socket, I can't.
I also have a portable Ark pack that the fridge can run off from the 12v outlet.
So if I change to an Anderson plug the fridge is then only useful in the vehicle with an Anderson "outlet".
I did not have any issues with the plug working loose even travelling over gravel roads. This maybe to do with the positioning of the 12v socket. It is vertical rather than horizontal so rather than slip out it would have to work its way upward and out. I have a hella type socket and the plug on the fridge looks like a Merrit plug.
Thanks for all the advice, I am learning heaps. Thanks Vic for posting this topic.
Thanks for the detailed info and advice Juergen it will come in handy.
Also yours baute and your experience, never thought of the swapping vehicle or horizontal mount for sockets bit.
I am thinking now for my 95 amp aux battery a Projecta 125 amp dual battery kit and like Juergen said if mounted at the rear of my vehicle (Hyundai Imax Van with seats removed) would buy the extra cable, also a double plug set into the top of the battery case, one for the 30l Eva Kool Traveller fridge and the other possibly for a 12V fan when needed.
See pic of kit attached (the 125amp one). The 75amp one is on special at $129 at Supercheap, don't know if they have stock or the price of the 125amp one, will have to check. Sorry about the size of the pic's, I did reduce them but not enough.
1 - Is not making a Proper connection..
2 - Has some corrosion at that point.. The corrosion causes a Resistance at the point, and as they say P[W] = [IxI]/R R= Resistance.. so any resistance at that point will cause the connection to radiate P[Watt's]
So All connections need to be such that there is No Resistance at all..
Another factor if their is a change of cable size that will cause an issue.. Most 12/240v Fridge's do not have the correct size cables for low voltage..
Juergen
I think that you meant P = I˛ x R rather than P = I˛ / R
SO if you have an Anderson plug installed for your fridge and you have a lead with one on from the fridge you only need to have another Anderson plug and lead with the correct plug for a 12v outlet. Plug the two Anderson plugs together and away you go.
simples
frank
My solar run independently and is connected via a c-tek dc to dc (D250S). Don't ask me why but that's how I asked the person who fitted it to do it. I think at that stage I wanted another dc to dc on board as I knew zilch about the Elektrobloc. I've since learnt that it's a good unit
Just so I understand that Frank, for the fridge you have one Andersen socket on the battery case with a lead that your fridge can plug into for 12V. And if you want to run two items plugged into your Aux battery (eg; 12V fridge and 12v fan) at the same time you would need a double Andersen Socket at the battery end and both the fridge and 12V fan connection to these would have an Andersen plug on the leads to plug into those? I am not a techo so need to have things spelled out in case I misunderstand them.
Hi Bryan. My Avan Ray wasn't even using the DC-DC function to charge the battery, the Electrobloc was only used in the 240VAC to 12VDC mode to charge the battery. I changed that but haven't bothered with solar on the Avan as yet. To be honest, I prefer to use the camper trailer, to which I fitted a Redarc BCDC1225 with DC from ALT and solar input. I don't even bother with 240VAC charging on it because I use it more for scrub camping. The Avan really doesn't inspire me that much, but I had to buy it more for "Her Indoors" so she could have a bit more comfort...
Wouldn't you have been better off just getting a decent solar reg/controller and feeding that into the Electrobloc? would have been cheaper, and you already had 240VAC charging with the BlueBloc.
That's correct Vic41, or you could have an Anderson plug (or two) for the fridge, and a ciggy socket or Merrit Socket as well, to plug the fan in, depending what the fan has on the end of it's lead.
Yeah P.G. 7 used to p*ss off the other tech trades too when they were only on 6.. hehehe.... Blackhanders, Elec and Inst were all 6, RadTechs were 7..
Thanks Troopy, I was only a lowly Gp 4, so wasn't allowed to use big words, LOL
I did have a TJM dual battery kit but changed it for a CTEK D250S. mainly because most dual battery systems seem to feed the std alternator voltage through to the dual battery. My understanding is that while the alternator starts of at a a high voltage it quickly drops down as it is only designed to top up the start battery, so the dual (house) battery might need nearer say 14 v to charge up it may only be getting less than 13. The D250S boosts the voltage to the dual battery to the highest level required.
This is a similar problem on boats where are lot of the alternators are actually automotive ones. The proper marine alternators charge at the higher correct rate.
No doubt some autoelectricioan will either correct me or agree
Thanks Happy Jack, I ended up having this Redarc system installed with a 95amp battery.
http://www.redarc.com.au/products/product/smart-start-sbi_12v_100a/
I only need mine for a 30l fridge/freezer and a small personal fan, but the auto electrician told me that for my needs and battery I wouldn't need a CTech, I did ask about it.
cheers
blaze
Thanks blaze, I don't want to embarrass a GN members here unless he gives me the green light, but he kindly gave me 95 amp deep cycle battery and offered to install a dual battery system for me, but he is up to his armpits with work and his own projects so I declined as I didn't want to impose on his time, although he would have willingly done it.
I thank you too for your kind offer (eye and all) I just hope your recovery goes well.
Thanks for the heads up on the Redarc too, funny in the link they look so big, but when they are actually installed they are tiny in comparison, a bit like the Macca's ads, LOL !
Thanks for the feedback troopy, it was fitted by an auto electronics mob called Deering Autronics in Balcatta WA, they have a few stores in WA. As for me, I know zip about techo stuff, however decided to use this company due to being happy with their work in the past.
They also give either RAC or Seniors Discount on labour, and are RAC recommended.