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Post Info TOPIC: Anderson plug draining tug battery when tug stopped


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Anderson plug draining tug battery when tug stopped


on a couple of occasions I have stopped for 1/2 hr + and forgotten to disconnect the anderson plug and the tug battery has gone flat.

is there any sort of fitting I can Install to avoid this happening?



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Senior Member

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Is the Anderson plug connected to the fridge? If that's the case then you will have a depleted battery.
The only option is to fit a fridge switch or turn your fridge to off when stopped.

https://www.caravansplus.com.au/fridge-switch-auto-cut-off-when-you-stop-driving-p-6496.html

Chris



-- Edited by vanman on Saturday 21st of October 2017 08:05:22 PM

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Low voltage cut out . Canāt go wrong . Have one between house and motor batteries . Two way even better ! https://www.jaycar.com.au/low-voltage-battery-isolator/p/MB3678

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Another option is relay off accessories.( key wire ) when key is off or motor NOT running the fridge is off or on house batteries .

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Hi Vaughan.

My "Sparky" put a diode/heat sink in the tug to prevent exactly what you have experienced.

Its in the line to van, but installed in the engine bay.

Works a treat and have never had a flat tug battery.

Hope this helps.

Cheers.

Hetho.



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Yes, what Vanman said. The Fridge Switch is totally automatic and foolproof. Your fridge should never be connected to your house battery because it will flatten it while you watch. I fitted an extra relay in the circuit to prevent the Fridge Switch having to handle too much power. Now we can stop anytime, even camp overnight and never have to unplug anything. Worth a look.

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I installed a switch behind the fridge, under the floor and interrupted the power cable. Cost all of $3. On a previous van I installed a switch on the A frame.



-- Edited by toglhot on Saturday 21st of October 2017 11:13:35 PM

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If it is an absorption fridge you are powering then wire it the way Dometic recommend. If you connect the relay coil to the accessory circuit then the fridge will not be connected whilst you are starting the motor.Dometic Fridge 12 V Wiring 2.PNG



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PeterD
Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top
Retired radio and electronics technician.
NSW Central Coast.

 



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hi
Rv Fridge Switch is the easiest to install without a lot of cabling .
Low volt disconnect . There are plenty of these use google images . Make sure it cuts out at 12.00 volts =50 % discharged battery
Jaycar , ABR sidewinder ,Projecta .

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I am just in the process of changing vehicles so have just ordered one of these for the new one.

 It is 100a fused & fits at the battery in the Andersen Plug cable.

http://tinyurl.com/y9ks6glb



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Aus-Kiwi wrote:

Low voltage cut out . Canāt go wrong . Have one between house and motor batteries . Two way even better ! https://www.jaycar.com.au/low-voltage-battery-isolator/p/MB3678


 At that discount, $69 down to $2.75, no wonder there is no stock anywhere. confuse



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Neil & Lynne

Bacchus Marsh

Victoria

MY17 Isuzu D-Max Dual Cab / 21' Silverline 21-65.3

1260w Solar: 400ah Lithium Battery: 2000w Projecta IP2000 Inverter

Diesel Heater: SOG Toilet Kit: 2.5kw Fujitsu Split System A/c

 

 



Veteran Member

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Yep - fitted one of these as I had drained the battery when we had an extended stop at a museum.  Easy to fit and then forget the problem!



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Guru

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The Fridgeswitch is an expensive way to go. The Dometic solution is about 1/5th the price. Why not power a Dometic fridge the way Dometic recommend

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PeterD
Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top
Retired radio and electronics technician.
NSW Central Coast.

 



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PeterD wrote:

The Fridgeswitch is an expensive way to go. The Dometic solution is about 1/5th the price. Why not power a Dometic fridge the way Dometic recommend


Gday...

Ya not rong Pete hmm

Mine has been set up as stated at time of van build/frudge installation ... so when I stop the engine, frudge power disconnected.

If I know I am going to be stopped for half hour or more I simply bung it on gas - easy peasy as some say

and no need for any additional $$$$ outlay for switches, wiring, gizmos or failing old phart memory.

cheers - John



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Guru

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With our fridge it's not a domestic we have the same problem the fridge will suck the battery dry,when parked with the alternator turned off,we just open the van door and turn the fridge off ,the better solution would be to have an auto electric wire a relay into the car igniting like we had on the old van that does the job automatically.



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Ron, I think you are confusing Dometic and domestic. The installations for Dometic fridges I posted above is equally applicable for all absorption fridges. What is your fridge make and model? (Do you understand the term absorption fridge?)

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PeterD
Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top
Retired radio and electronics technician.
NSW Central Coast.

 



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Hi Vaughan,

I am assuming that you wired up the cabling from Battery to Fridge yourself as DIY enthusiast.

Just include a Fuse and Relay in the engine bay in line with your current wiring. That is how I have my Fridge wiring setup for 12v running. When you turn off engine fridge turns off also so no battery drain.

I have a fuse at the engine bay and another at the fridge 12v connection (double protection). My (90lt Dometic 3 way) fridge cable from bay to fridge is 8b&s through Anderson with never a problem. My van batteries, however, are connected with 6b&s cabling.

Pics of fuse and relay shown here...got them off Ebay.



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Cheers, Richard (Dick0)

"Home is where the Den is parked, Designer Orchid Special towed by Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited"

"4x250W solar panels, Epever 80A charger and 3x135Ah Voltax Prismatic LiFePO4 Batteries".



Guru

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PeterD wrote:

Ron, I think you are confusing Dometic and domestic. The installations for Dometic fridges I posted above is equally applicable for all absorption fridges. What is your fridge make and model? (Do you understand the term absorption fridge?)


 Peter. I did not type domestic the spellcheck did...as far as fridges are concerned twenty years with vans and Iam on my fourth van now I do know the difference..



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Senior Member

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hi
Fridge switch expensive ,,how so,,,, around 50$. Ever considered inaccessible camper fridges/ van fridges
Vsr fitted in car. Low volt disconnect fitted to van batteries . The whole system works well !

2 layers of protection for van [f/switch and LVD] and engine bay batteries [fridge sw and Vsr ] , makes for a  simple  choice .

Ignition fed relay has 1 layer of protection for engine bay start battery .

The other way is to run separate cable with ignition fed relay similar cost ! At least 8mmsq cable plus labour, costly even without labour .
Or do it manually by remembering to disconnect many forget !



-- Edited by swamp on Friday 27th of October 2017 08:29:49 PM



-- Edited by swamp on Friday 27th of October 2017 09:52:23 PM

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