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Post Info TOPIC: Waeco Powersupply


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RE: Waeco Powersupply


The 101N0220 control box probably houses an inverter to convert the DC supply into a multiphase pseudo-AC supply for the compressor. The fact that there is an error output that flashes a LED using several different error codes would suggest that the box incorporates a microprocessor of some kind.

The "C" terminal appears to be the Common, and is probably grounded.

The "T" terminal turns the compressor on or off and selects the desired RPM in the range from 2000 RPM to 3500 RPM.

A T-C voltage of 0V selects 2000 RPM whereas a voltage of 3V selects 3500 RPM. Between these two extremes the voltage-RPM relationship appears to be linear, ie each additional volt adds 500 RPM.

The "P" terminal selects the cut-in and cut-out battery voltages. A P-C voltage of 0V selects a 10.9V cut-in and 9.6V cut-out.

The "D" terminal is the error output.

Here is the datasheet for the BD35F compressor and 101N0220 control:

www.ra.danfoss.com/TechnicalInfo/Literature/Manuals/06/BD35-50F_101N0210-20-40_0300-20_08-2011_dehcei100b602.pdf



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Thanks for your input DeBe,

           I was a little confused at first by the wiring colours,(mainly camera angle) but think I worked it out-

So far as I can tell, it seems you have disconnected 'C' (white) and 'T'(yellow) and bridged/looped these with the red wire .(?)
With that configuration,- (photo #2) from 12.2v supply, I have 12.13v at top terminals +/-, and the fan and compressor both run.

  Is there a fuse anywhere? (odd if not), as when I was checking what wires went where, I dropped the main feed (Red/red) and it arced off the compressor body (yeah I know- should've disconned it!!), so now under normal connectivity, nothing happens (but ok for above test), figured a blown fuse, but none to be seen(?), might add one!

I don't have a second yellow wire to '+', but a thin red piggy backed onto thick red main power '+' instead, (as per photo #1- hopefully).

What exactly is in the box we're dealing with? a control box for the 12/24v sensor, or where does that..??, can't figure how to remove/inspect it without major surgery- or if need be..?..(~;

With everything connected normal, for what it's worth I have the following readings

@  12v  / 24v

      12.3   / 26.9    @ all 4 wires connected to +,+

         3.7  /    3.9          @  'D'

         0.2  /  0.2            @  'C' ,'P' -

         3.1  /   3.2           @    'T' 

 Hopin' I haven't totally destroyed it, do those results tell anything?

 Cheers and thanks again, duTch.

I thought I already posted another edit of this, but seems to have disappeared..!!

 



-- Edited by duTch on Saturday 3rd of May 2014 08:01:29 AM

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It should run on 12vdc or 24vdc. When on 12v check the voltage on the top 2 conectors on t -Danfoss Bridge C & T to run comp @ 2000RPM.JPG



-- Edited by DeBe on Thursday 1st of May 2014 08:19:01 AM



-- Edited by DeBe on Thursday 1st of May 2014 11:42:34 AM



-- Edited by DeBe on Thursday 1st of May 2014 11:43:21 AM

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D.L.Bishop


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Just so you know where I'm going in advance, Waeco runs fine on 240AC & 24 Vdc, but not on 12Vdc...and I know just enough to be dangerous...(~;

Hi there, not so sure I'm doing this right, but will dive in the deep end... have a similar problem to above stories and all internet searches show you guys as the only viable help...tried the Waeco service people, but usual response..(just bring it in and let us overcharge you-how much...the only info I was given is, the unit auto-detects 12/24..)

I was building up a bus, but it got stolen...To cut a long story short, I have a Waeco CF110, new in about '05 or '06..superseded when the new series with digital readout came along..
(I think it's a series A mk2..? does that sound right?) external power supply ( MPS-50A 12/24dc/240ac )

Ran it on 240 for a while, no probs and then parked it up...'til...went camping and...
Plugged into 12 v battery charged from 80 W panel,(not through the mobitronic, figured I didn't need it), and all seemed fine (kindof)- fan runs, indicator lights and controls do their stuff, but it doesn't get cold.
Thought it must need to run 12V through the Mobitronic, but no-go on 12v supply as above(soft or hard wired, only outputs 12V).

I plugged back into 240v- runs fine, bodged up a 24V system, and it runs fine...!

almost there....with questions!
Mobitronic supplies 24V out from 240 mains input, and 12vdc only out from 12V dc input, and the circuit board beside the fan I think corresponds ok.

Q1, Is the DC output from 12 V in, intended to be 12V only...?...which is why I just ran straight from 12V battery supply?

Q2, Does the compressor run on 12vdc, or 24vdc, or both, or is there magic circuitry inside where I can't access..other than the circuit board beside the fan?
( ie; in the white distro box, +,-,B+,F,D,C,P,T )

Q3, Is this a simple solution, ie making it possible to run from 12v, if not I'll just continue to bodge up 24 v...??
I have some photos, when I figure out that bit.

Thanks in advance, duTch- if there's anything I can do to help, let me know, cheers




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Waeco CF-40 VER.A Circuit.WAECO CF-40 VER.A.1.JPGWAECO CF-40 VER.A .2.JPG



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D.L.Bishop


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i have his fridge running on a external power supply, just have this in the shed and come back to it every now and then!

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yeah i know, just trying to make it fit back inside. this is actually my dad's, i have an older non 240v one, i was always jealous that his had the 240v inside! I've now had to replace the thermistor on his (which i think caused the power supply problem-wet foam) and now this! maybe the old girls are better!

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The yellow blocks are capacitors & should be ok unless shorted. Check the mains bridge rectifier for shorts. $189 for a new powersupply is a bid dear. You should be able to by a 12V 6Amp Dc powersupply cheeper?



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D.L.Bishop


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also wondered about the yellow blocks, are they capacitors? as they run between the active and neutral. my multimeter doesn't seem to read anything off them..

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so ive replaced everything that appears to be burnt, and now it blows the mains fuse,which didn't blow initially, I did replace Q1 again. would it be the voltage spike protection? i have ordered a couple but is there anyway to test the one on the board?
i can a new one down the road
www.allvolts.com.au/catalogue/4330_item.html
but won't if i can fix this one! nothing else burns so i think I've improved it, just the fuse..

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think i have another q1, will get the 2w resistor and have another go!


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R11a is .2 ohm 2 watt metal film resistor, for that to blow Q1 is either shorted or turned on & not switching. R8 is 22 ohm 1 watt resistor, this is what drives Q1. if it was alreay blown then that may be the cause of R11 blowing. Q1 may also now be faulty. May be time to look at using an external 12V dc powersuply from someone like Jaycar.



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D.L.Bishop


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thanks for the previous help, I've now replaced ic1, q1, r9, but when i connected it up to 240v, i blew r11a and r 8. any ideas? r8 may have been blown already, i didn't notice until now that its blown but r11a went when i plugged it in. does r11a need to be replaced with any special type of resistor? do i need to buy a whole new unit?? spent a fair bit of time on it!

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Thats quite right powersuply has 25V printed on it, but in reality they put out 27V & they are fine at that voltage. If you was running a fridge off a vehicle that was 24V, the voltage would go up around 28V when the altenator is charging. The control box on the compressor will handle a max of 31.5V on 24v. And 17V max on 12V use.Waeco Ps15.JPG



-- Edited by DeBe on Saturday 14th of December 2013 10:26:34 AM

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D.L.Bishop


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ISTM that R18, R19, and R20 in the circuit diagram are setting the output voltage to approximately 28V, not 24V.

Vout = Vref x (R18 + R19 + R20) / (R19 + R20) = 2.5 x (26.5 + 2.4 + 0.22) / (2.4 + 0.22) = 27.8V



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bairsjw wrote:

Also ordered this one but now think it is wrong, as it is a B not an A!

au.element14.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp


This one should be fine as its specs are the same as the A, probably just a later version of the original. 



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Also ordered this one but now think it is wrong, as it is a B not an A!

au.element14.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp

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I have ordered this one..

au.element14.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp

Pretty sure it's right!

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The UC3842 is a Switch Mode Power Supply driver IC. I would be using the original IC number. There is 3 other UC 38xx types which are different. The Mosfet may also be damaged. Here is the Data on the UC3842A controller chip, the Ic you are getting should match this, as far as I know there is only one UC3842A IC.UC3842A.1.jpgUC3842A.2.jpgUC3842A.3.jpg



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D.L.Bishop


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As mine is blown and the number is no longer viewable I searched using your picture but the number comes up with a couple of possibilities with different following letters ( not on the ic in the picture) the difference being the output voltage, any idea which one I should be using? I have also bought the MOSFET so will replace at the same time.

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The UC3844 is a Switch Mode Power Supply driver IC. I would be using the original IC number. There is 3 other UC 38xx types which are different. The Mosfet may also be damaged.

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D.L.Bishop


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Hi i know its an old post, but was wondering if anyone can tell me either from experience or the circuit diagram what Uc3844 does. I have a blown one (wet foam had fallen on the MOSFET after replacing a thermistor) and there are 2 available on a search of the ic number on element14 that are nearly identical, the only difference one outputs 5v, the other 13.4 v. Can someone tell me which one is right? ( I've ordered both as they are only $2.60 each!) thanks in advance!

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Hi Dan, i would try one from Altronics, PTC fuse R4562A for $1.50 they have a trip current of 7.5Amp.



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Dan


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Hi everyone,

I have been inspired to pull my waeco cf 50 out of the never to be seen again black hole in my shed as I think it has a blown polyfuse and would like to replace it. From what I have read I think need to replace it with a larger capacity one. Can anyone tell me what polyfuse I should use?

Cheers,

Dan

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I have a problem with my Waeco on 240 volt as it made a sizzling sound when I turned the240 volt on and it blew the circuit breaker in the van and on the site power pole.
I have not looked at it yet but it still works on 12 volt when there is power in the dual battery
Ken

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WAECO CD-40 AC VERA.JPGWAECO CD-40 AC VERA 2.JPGWAECO CD-40 AC VERA 8.JPGHi Chris & Marily. Can you post a sharper picture of the other side of the circuit board? Possable places for trouble are dry solder joints around the Relay or the 2 Regulator ICs 7810 & 7805 at the top of your picture. The regulator 7810 should have 12 or 24V on one leg center leg goes to ground & the other should have 10V DC on it.  With 7805 it should have 12/24Vdc on one leg, center leg ground, other leg should have 5V DC on it. Will put picture of a CF-40 board same as yours except it doesnt have the  relay fitted as its on the Mains to 24V powersuply board.



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D.L.Bishop


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Waeco Cooler Circuit Board?


We have a Waeco brand electric cooler model CF-40. It came with our 2007 Winnebago Vectra when we bought it about a year ago. I've had it on in the past, but this is our first extended road trip and now it doesn't work.
We're getting power both on the 120 volt & 12 volt circuits. The fuses both on the outside & inside of the box are good. We've got power to the power supply box and from the 26 volt power from the power supply box to the circuit board. Nonetheless, still no display on the control panel. No power light and no error light.
I assume the board is bad. I can't find a schematic for the board (no manf. name only a number of 005224 REV:C). I can't even find a place to buy the board.
We're hoping someone has had some experience with this problem or where to get help.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Chris & Marily
Winter Haven, Florida, USA


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Chris & Mairly

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RE: Waeco Powersupply


Hi DeBe.

I found the easiest way of getting the PSU out was a combination of your method and lowering the compressor about an inch. I replaced the polyfuse and the fridge works OK on 240VAC so I didn't break anything! I'll try it in the car tomorrow.

Many thanks for your help with this.

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many thanks DeBe. I'll look at it in the morning.

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WAECO P-S PTC.JPGHeres a pict of the Polly fuse.



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