i have tended to use where possible so called premium diesel fuel ie Caltex Vortex and BP Ultimate and I was wondering if many others used these premium fuels or is it just price that's the main driver when choosing your fuel.
Our local BP has the Ultimate diesel so most of the time that's what I have used in the current Pajero Sport and before it the Kia Sorento. The same with our petrol vehicles past and present we have always tried to use 98 octane fuel or if it's not available 95 (never 92). When we lived in Southern Africa the fuels were specified by their octane levels not by some fancy brand name like Ultimate or Vortex etc. you knew exactly what you were getting. I haven't done a diesel comparison but with petrol I found that with the higher octanes you did get a few more klms between fills which in the end probably balanced out with the extra cost of using it. The advantage supposedly is having a little better performance (I probably agree) and a cleaner engine (don't know never pulled one apart to find out).
At the end of the day the manufactures say that their vehicles will run efficiently on the non premium fuels so I may be just wasting a lot of money for very little gain but I'll keep using it anyway.
Recently while traveling south I used BP Ultimate for the first time and was amazed at the smooth running and better performance of my truck however I have not been able to get it at many places. Definitely notice a big improvement when using it In Isuzu NPR 275.
In all honesty I do not know what to believe/disbelieve
I have read that you should never put E/Bio type Diesel in the Fiat 2.8 JTD common rail diesel engine, as it may gum up the injectors, (possibly salesmen)
On another site I have read, that the Fiat 2.8 JTD common rail diesel was detuned, so that it would run on the lowest grade diesel, worldwide (from a chip tuning site)
Just to be on the safe side, I do not use the E/Bio type diesel, although it is cheaper than normal diesel
We use premium diesel in our 2002 Mercedes Sprinter campervan & yacht along with Wynns EDT diesel treatment & in 20 years have never replaced a fuel filter in the yachts Yanmar 38hp 3 cylinder diesel engine-change its engine oil twice a year myself & nothing else in that time- excellent old technology operating in a harsh enviroment- I can't imagine the current crop of engines are capable of such reliability & cheap running costs over 20 years-The Mercedes certainly costs a lot more in upkeep but back to your original question it does appear to run much better on premium diesel & the Wynns combination.
The Belmont Bear wrote:
Hi JackoFJR, I dont think that they mean there is actually dirt in the fuel I think they are trying to say that using their premium will remove any build up from "dirty engines" that has supposedly been caused by using a less efficient non premium fuel. As I said in a previous post I have no idea whether their claim has any truth in it as I have never bothered to dismantle a motor to find out - maybe a mechanic could tell us what they are finding during their servicing.
I know there is no dirt in the fuel , its just how stupid can these adds get , I have never noticed any difference in performance or fuel economy with different brands of diesel .
JackoFJR- in all the adds I have seen or heard about premium fuels the manufacturers have claimed that their products will clean a dirty engine i.e. the build up that is supposedly caused by the less efficient burning of a lower grade fuel - I don't see that as being stupid just not proven. The fact that you personally haven't seen an improvement in the performance or economy of your own vehicle doesn't make them wrong as there are other responses here suggesting that some people believe that they have.
"There is a add I'm hearing lately that Premium Diesel is better for your engine, cleans it because the other diesel has Dirt in it , that's right they say Dirt , what a lot of bull ".
I took from your comment that you believed a particular manufacturer had been advertising that there was dirt in some diesel fuels. I was just pointing out to you that I didn't think that this was really the intent of their message - sorry if I misinterpreted the point that you were trying to make.
You want your car to go better.
Get a computer flash by a good operator. and keep tyres a bit harder with good tread.
Crude goes through several steps to differing ranges of refinement.
Diesel is around 3\5ths up the ladder.
and itself is refined to differing cetanes. pureness.
Aust requirements are a step or two UNDER requirements for Euro market.
Hence the problems we have.
Keep a good filter system, Maintained.
decent fuel supplier.
I like truck stops as higher turnover. fresher? supply's.
Add fuel system cleaner every 20k or so
and I also add 250ml of basic 2 str oil. (MY choice)
per 65 ish ltrs of fuel in tank
It DOES give a quieter, and smoother feeling donk in these old D;Max 3 ltrs.
Not so sure I'd add to these latest model donk's\fuel systems.
They a different breed altogether.
And at 137 a ltr. My half tank and Di's petrol at 124c per ltr will do us till price drops again.
Like I said.
Politicians with balls. Hah.
No such bloody thing.
They ALL have very greasy palms, BOTH of them.
Diesel's Diesel, fill ér up!
Macka, not disputing that an ECU flash makes the vehicle perform better, but have read a number of articles lately suggesting the chip to be a better option as
1) it allows vehicle to be returned to factory settings if necessary for fault finding, and
2) if the vehicles is sold, at least people know the chip is there should something go wrong and diagnosis of a fault is necessary, where they may not know if a reflash has been done.
Just a point for consideration, and as I say, not criticism of either owners or a reflash, but many on the forum who have bought a modern second hand diesel may NOT know if their unit has been reflashed, and that MAY make it difficult to fault find if a problem occurs.
Fair enuff Ian.
We all have differing thoughts and opinions.
ALL correct. to ourselves.
I'm NEVER wrong... Are you?? Chuckle.
Regarding the alternatives. Yes the chip is a 2 min disconnect.
or with some just set to "0".
The flash is often reset to factory
when veh's go in for servicing and on Computer.
Hence I always recommend.
ONLY buy a flash if the give a disc to reflash again.
OR guarantee to reflash for you afterwards.
There are pro's and cons to both or none.
BOTH DO improve performance and towing ability
depending mainly on HOW you utilise the extra power.
Or economy sides of it.
Like I said. I've used last 3 veh's chipped, after running std firstly.
with great improvements with all of them, Power and economy
with no (so far) adverse effects.
but I AM a very light foot, economical driver anyway.
The only people I know that have removed chip.
Are the ones that bought real cheap. Basic units in the first place.
OR upgrading to flash.
Get one of the top 4 and no problems usually.
Same as flashes.
There are a couple of proven very effective jobs
. and a lot where you wish maybe you hadn't bothered.
They basically depend on the person and his skills doing it.
and can vary quite a bit.
I KNOW your Patrol would have improved a good 30\35% with it's towing.
and better economy too.
Mine was a different vehicle,
also quite a few others I persuaded to too
after demo'ing it to them while travelling with van.
If your D-Max an Auto.and you tow a fairly heavy van\5ther.
think about a Torque Converter lock up too.
It stops all the "hunting" when climbing long or steepish hills.
and retards beautifully on steep downhills too
Stops Converter "slipping" and overheating oil.
-- Edited by macka17 on Friday 23rd of December 2016 11:27:25 AM